Man In Charge

Chef Thomas Connell’s job title as VP of operations for culinary and food and beverage plays like a tongue twister, but in his unassuming, matter-of-fact way, Connell condenses it to one sentence: “That means I am responsible for what you eat and drink when you’re here,” he says followed with a soft chuckle.

“Here” is the iconic Fontainebleau Hotel, known for its storied history and glamour since opening in 1954. Dining continues to be a major draw, with the property serving as home to a selection of celebrity chef restaurants like Scarpetta by Scott Conant, Stripsteak by Michael Mina and award-wining eateries like Hakkasan, one of the top Asian restaurants in town. Connell, 52, who claims he had little to do with his career choice, overseas them all.   

“This business is the kind of business that calls you, you don’t call it, so, I didn’t really choose it, I feel like it kind of chose me. I just have a love for food and was influenced by my grandfather who loved to cook so I just kind of followed the path,” he says.

The path led the L.A. native to enroll in The Institute of Culinary Arts in Palm Springs, then later the illustrious Culinary Institute of America in upstate New York. A stint of job positions with hotels like the Hilton and Hyatt followed before moving on to The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, where he spent two decades climbing the culinary ladder working all over the world, including a 7-year stint in Barcelona, Spain. That kind of global exposure had a strong and lasting impact on Connell as a whole.

“The influence [of living abroad] affects your food, I think, but also your character because when you travel and when you live in another country, you become very diplomatic.  You have to be open to culture, to styles, history, tradition – things like that.  And it gives you a totally different perspective than if you were just born and raised in the same country and lived in the same culture your whole life.” 

The opening of The Ritz-Carlton on Miami’s Lincoln Road brought Connell to the Magic City, where he stayed another seven years before working at the Fontainebleau, a unique opportunity he could not refuse. 

“It’s a truly artisan-based operation. The kitchens are structured like a kitchen would be built back in the 50s, like hotels back in the 50s — because, you had to have a bakery, you had to have a commissary kitchen, you had to have a saucier, you had to have a chocolatier. You had these old, traditional brigades that existed because no commercial production of food existed,” he says.

Overseeing the production of all the food at the Fontainebleau is clearly no easy feat. With six restaurants plus room service for 1504 rooms and suites, most would easily be overwhelmed. But Connell, who has 1000 employees under his watch, approaches it with a calm, disciplined attitude that, after 12 years on the job, has clearly served in his favor.

“There’s a lot of layers of professional ladies and gentlemen that are trained in their craft, in their specific talent and that are passionate about it. So, my number one focus is to inspire them, to give direction from the guest’s perspective so that they understand why we’re doing what we’re doing and why we’re pushing each other so intently on getting things done to the highest level.”

It’s hard to pin down a typical day for Connell, but most begin with a 2-hour run through the entire property, which includes “Water World,” the 2500-gallon salt water tanks (soon to be upgraded to 5,000 gallons) that provide fresh seafood for the property’s ocean-to-table property. And while patrons may not recognize him, something he is more than okay with (“The name is Fontainebleau, the name is not Thomas Connell,” he attests), it’s his dedication to impeccable service, exceptional cuisine and teamwork that has made the culinary program at the hotel an irrefutable success. 

“The real passion, the real love for me is the old school of hospitality and so, to me, it’s like a huge Bed and Breakfast, you know? Your customer and the people in front of you — that is your priority,” Connell says.

There’s no shortage of inspiration, either. Connell compares his industry as “a book that you’ll never stop reading, you’ll never finish,” because there is so much to learn each day.  “I don’t care how long you’re doing this business — your feet stay on the ground the whole time and you just keep your eyes and ears open because that’s the only way to keep getting better.”

When asked what it means to be a positive male role model, the father of four credits his mother for the strong ethics he holds in both his personal and professional life. 

“My mother was the most influential and strongest person I ever experienced in my life. To be able to see that, whether you’re a man or a woman, you have a responsibility to be a good human. I do focus on that. I focus on being honest, I focus on being trustworthy, I still to this day – if I tell you I’m going to do something, it’s going to happen,” he says.

It’s a code of conduct that has defined him and garners the respect and trust of those he works with — and certainly something he does not take lightly. 

 “People always ask what’s your biggest impact as a leader and your biggest impact is how you can affect the people that report to you because you can make their life great, you can make their life miserable. Just in how you are – your demeanor, your actions: how you treat them, talk to them, look at them, don’t talk to them, don’t look at them. We have such an influence on the people that are around us and we owe it to them and to ourselves to be honorable to that responsibility.”

Octopus And Garlic Prawns

Serves 2

This is a dish I introduced to our oceanside bistro La Côte within the first year of me coming to the property because I felt it exemplified the cuisine concept of La Côte and the American Riviera. It was an instant hit and has been a top seller ever since and going on 10 years now. It is a unique dish as well in the presentation and aesthetics that people remember and come back for. For me, I have always lived in coastal warm climates and the Mediterranean style to eat has always been one of my favorite cooking styles and eating styles. It is a dish that has purpose to the menu and is not just a “filler.”

Ingredients:

8 Large prawns, shells removed

12 oz. Cooked octopus

1 Whole artichoke, boiled and cleaned

2 Garlic cloves, peeled and sliced thin

10 oz. Olive oil

1⁄3 Bunch parsley, chopped

1 tsp. Smoked paprika

½ Lemon, zested

4 Slices country bread

Salt and pepper, to taste

Process:

• Assemble all ingredients.

• Dip octopus in boiling seasoned water then lower heat and simmer for 40 minutes.

• Remove cooked octopus and allow to cool.

• Slice octopus tentacles in ¼-inch slices.

• Clean artichoke to the heart and slice into eighths.

• Heat oil in a wide surface pan until hot but not smoking.

• Place garlic in the oil for about 45 seconds.

• Add prawns and octopus.

• Turn prawns over after 90 seconds, add artichoke then remove the pan from the heat.

• Add paprika, chopped parsley, lemon zest and salt and pepper.

• Keep all ingredients in the pan and serve family style with the country bread lightly grilled.