Rugged & Refined

The Rusty Parrot Lodge & Spa In Jackson Hole Exudes Elegance And Rustic Charm

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As a child, I remember reading “Eloise” and thinking about how amazing it must be to live in a hotel. Now, decades later, I am sipping a cocktail in the cozy bar of the Rusty Parrot Lodge & Spa, listening to Brandon Harrison share what it was actually like to grow up in one.

“I’d take my skis and go to school, then go to ski practice. When I came home, I’d put on a bellman uniform and help out,” the now general manager recalls of his teen years at the family-owned luxury property in Jackson Hole, Wyoming. His father, Ron, who opened the property in 1990, made sure his son learned every role firsthand, but it’s the bellhop position he remembers most fondly.

“They had a bell attached to my room and would ring it if they needed help.”

Having grown up within the Rusty Parrot Lodge & Spa’s corridors — both as a child and employee — Harrison developed not only a deep understanding of hospitality but also a heartfelt passion for the place that helped nurture him into the man he is today.

Which made it all the more devastating when the property burned down in 2019.

And while the fire — which reportedly started in an outdoor fireplace — caused so much damage that it was deemed structurally unsound, there was never a question in Harrison and his sister Heidi’s minds what would happen next.

The siblings turned tragedy into an opportunity, rebuilding the Rusty Parrot Lodge Inn & Spa with thoughtful enhancements to attract high-end travelers vacationing in Jackson Hole — a holiday destination popular among the affluent crowd. Reopened on July 1, 2024, the boutique hotel remains true to its original character, exuding rustic-chic Western charm while showcasing an impressive collection of local Western art, much of which was saved from the fire.

With 40 guestrooms (up from 32), the property retains its intimate feel, evident in cozy touches like the second-floor corner library stocked with works by iconic authors such as John Grisham, Dean Koontz and Carlos Ruiz Zafón.

If you don’t feel like settling into one of the plush leather chairs for a read, you can head over to the wildlife viewing deck overlooking Saddle Butte and Flat Creek — just stop by the front desk to borrow a pair of binoculars for a closer look.

I arrived in early January, when Jackson — often referred to as Jackson Hole — was blanketed in snow and temperatures dipped to minus 14 degrees. It made the fireplace in my room, which ignites at the push of a button, all the more appreciated. While skiing and snowboarding are the main winter draws, summer — with activities like alpine hiking, mountain biking, hot air ballooning and canoeing — is considered high season. Still, the stunning winter landscape makes it a must-visit destination, even if you’re not planning to hit the slopes, and there’s no better place to experience it than the Rusty Parrot Lodge & Spa.

Beyond its inviting ambiance, what truly sets the property apart is the warmth and attention to detail infused by the Harrison family, who have spent over 30 years perfecting the art of hospitality. Whether it’s complimentary snacks like maple, pecan and bacon popcorn, a plush teddy bear placed on your pillow (strategically moved around by housekeeping throughout your stay) or a Western-themed poem (I particularly enjoyed “Cowboy and His Dog”) left as part of turndown service, no detail is spared. While there is no coffeemaker in the room, coffee, tea and hot cider are always available in the library. Swing by at 3 p.m. and you’ll find home-baked cookies — a tradition that began when Harrison returned from school.

Another welcome addition is The Body Sage Spa, meticulously curated by Heidi. In true “Eat, Pray, Love” fashion, she left behind a corporate career and bought a one-way ticket to Bali, spending 18 months studying yoga in India, meditation in Nepal and traditional Thai massage. When she returned, she began offering massages out of a small storage closet in the hotel, gradually expanding into a multiroom practice before moving off-site to accommodate growing demand. Today, the spa occupies a spacious, purpose-built retreat within the property and offers an array of treatments.

Just as The Body Sage Spa has become a wellness sanctuary, Wild Sage has established itself as a dining destination in its own right. At the helm is Chef Hugo Goodwin, a Montreal native who trained in France before making his way through New York City kitchens and eventually landing in Jackson Hole. Dishes like Elk Carpaccio, Chicory Salad with Crispy Pig’s Ear and Soup À L’Ail — Provençal Garlic Soup with Marrow and Duck Fat Croutons — highlight his mastery of French technique and his creative prowess using local ingredients. The Heluka Pork Chop with Grilled Polenta, Hatch Chili Beurre Blanc and Slow-Cooked Kale and the Wild Sable with Black Tea, Smoked Trout Caviar, Celeriac and Crème Fraîche were popular selections during my stay. The menu shifts with the seasons, ensuring there is always something new to discover.

I didn’t spot any wildlife from the hotel deck, so I decided to venture beyond the Rusty Parrot Lodge & Spa and immerse myself in Jackson Hole’s winter wilderness. Bundling up, I headed for an Elk Refuge Sleigh Ride at the National Elk Refuge. Created in 1912, the National Elk Refuge houses approximately 11,000 of these majestic creatures.

Gliding through the snow in an open-aired wooden sleigh pulled by Percheron draft horses, I listened as our guide shared curious facts — like how elk have four stomachs to help digest their tough, fibrous diet.

I also learned that each winter the males shed their massive antlers and only the local Boy Scout troops are permitted to enter the refuge to collect them. The antlers are then auctioned off, with most of the proceeds going back into the refuge. Standing in the middle of this vast, frozen expanse, surrounded by hundreds of elk with the Grand Tetons towering in the distance, felt nothing short of surreal. As a bonus, a bald eagle soared overhead while a curious coyote scampered in the background.

For those who prefer to spot wildlife from the comfort of a heated van (with snacks), the Winter Wildlife Expedition with Great Western Expeditions is the way to go. Guides equipped with binoculars and a telescope help guests glimpse moose, bison, elk and — if luck is on your side — wolves. For a more immersive adventure, trek through untouched powder on snowshoes to a secluded winter camp, where a gourmet picnic lunch is served inside an igloo tent — capped off with s’mores by the fire.

Afterward, head back to the hotel to soak in the outdoor hot tub, or stop by the bar and ask Zack to mix you a Zaquiri (Duelling Rums, Dry Curacao, Falernum, Orgeat Lime and Tiki Bitters).

It’s a stark contrast to life in South Florida, where wildlife consists of sunbathing iguanas and the closest thing to a mountain is the local landfill. Yet, in an amusing twist, this charming property on the edge of Jackson Hole bears an almost tropical-sounding name. As for why? Well, that’s a curious tale — one that is shared only with guests who ask the owners directly. Just another reason to start packing your bags. 

The Rusty Parrot Lodge & Spa is located at 175 N. Jackson St., Jackson, Wyoming. For more information, call 307-773-2000 or visit rustyparrot.com.