Spend time amid Iceland’s dramatic geography, and it’s easy to understand why stories of elves, trolls and unseen worlds feel entirely plausible here. That sense of wonder is centuries old, shaped by the landvættir, or “land spirits,” said to protect the island.
Legend has it that a bull, an eagle, a dragon and a stone giant have watched over Iceland since the Viking Age, when Norse and Celtic settlers first arrived around A.D. 874. Each guardian is assigned a different quarter of the country and appears on Iceland’s coat of arms, a quiet assertion that myth here is not merely folklore, but part of the national identity. Icelanders display an unmistakable pride in their country, rooted as much in the land itself as in the nation’s history. Volcanoes steam beside glaciers, moss blankets ancient lava fields and weather shifts without warning. The landscape is so powerful, it feels alive.
And while Iceland has adapted with ease to the steady influx of tourism over the past two decades — English is widely spoken, credit cards are universally accepted and the infrastructure is impressively efficient — its traditions, customs and language remain carefully preserved.
With more than 3,000 miles of rugged coastline, Iceland doesn’t lend itself to a single, tidy itinerary. I came with my son to celebrate his college graduation, and in the week we had to explore, we focused on the south — a region dense with waterfalls, glaciers and volcanic terrain, and an ideal introduction to the country’s raw beauty. Our base was Hotel Rangá, a family-owned property that has been a fixture in southern Iceland for more than 20 years.
Icelandic Adventures
There are endless opportunities for exploration in Iceland, where itineraries tend to remain flexible — shaped as much by the fickle weather as by the easygoing locals who plan their days around it. Traveling with my son, our days unfolded the same way, guided by conditions as much as curiosity.
We began at the Caves of Hella, 12 man-made caves along the Ytri Rangá river (five are open to visitors), that rank among Iceland’s oldest archaeological sites. Their exact origins remain unclear, but one prevailing theory suggests they were carved by Irish monks — lending weight to the idea that the Celts may have reached Iceland before the Vikings. Cross carvings and possible prayer altars, uncommon in pagan Viking culture, hint at religious use, while later chapters of the caves’ history saw them repurposed for practical needs, including shelter and storage.
Caves of Hella
Photo courtesy of Caves of Hella
Icelandic horses
Photo by Gunnar Freyr
Another day unfolded on horseback. At Icelandic Horseworld (also known as Skeiðvellir), about a half-hour from the hotel, the country’s most beloved animal takes center stage. Set amid open pastureland framed by low mountains, lava fields and wide, wind-swept skies, the setting feels distinctly Icelandic — perfect for an epic horseback ride. Small in stature but remarkably strong, Icelandic horses have been part of life here since the earliest settlers. Today, with the country being home to roughly 400,000 people and 80,000 horses, the math is clear: These equines remain deeply woven into everyday life.
I rode Audiss, a spirited mare with a fondness for shrubs, who slipped easily into the tölt — a uniquely Icelandic gait that feels smooth and gliding, more like floating than riding. My son was paired with the same horse Chris Hemsworth rode during a visit, a detail that earned his quiet approval.
Farther east, the landscape shifted again. Near the village of Vík, we made our way to the Katla Ice Cave, which offers a glimpse into the island’s glacial underworld. Reaching it meant crossing black volcanic plains by Super Jeep, followed by a hike to the cave entrance. Inside, vivid blue ice lined the walls, streaked with ash from past eruptions — a reminder that fire and ice are never far apart here.
Katla Ice Cave
Photo By Stefan Liebermann
Just outside Vík, Reynisfjara Beach delivered another kind of drama, with sheer black rock rising from the shore and waves crashing onto the inky volcanic sand. Back in town, we made our way to Smiðjan Brugghús for juicy burgers topped with Icelandic spicy cheese, washing those down with cold Einstök White Ale.
Celebrating my son’s college graduation seemed a fitting reason to seek out a little adrenaline boost. Southcoast Adventure’s 2.5-Hour Buggy Ride began at Brú Base Camp, where we suited up in thick waterproof coveralls, helmets and gloves before heading across sand plains and river crossings near Eyjafjallajökull, the volcano whose 2010 eruption disrupted air travel across Europe. We raced alongside glaciers, mud flying everywhere, as the vast landscape unfolded at full throttle.
Southcoast Adventure Buggy Tours
Photo by Ingibjörg Friðriksdóttir
Friðheimar
Photo courtesy of Friðheimar
The Golden Circle
Of course, we couldn’t miss the Golden Circle, a loop that links waterfalls, geysers and historic sites that’s often treated as a sort of touristic greatest-hits route. Our travels, however, revolved around food as much as the landscape, so we began with an early lunch at Friðheimar, a greenhouse about an hour and 20 minutes from the hotel. We sat at long communal tables among twisting tomato vines, watching bowls of steaming tomato soup arrive alongside crusty bread. The menu centers almost entirely on the farm’s singular crop, with tomatoes appearing everywhere — even in desserts like tomato ice cream and cheesecake topped with tomato jam.
From there, we headed north for 15 minutes to Geysir Hot Springs. The ground hissed and bubbled, streaked with mineral stains and ringed by shallow pools of hot water. Strokkur, the most active geyser, erupted every few minutes, shooting boiling water skyward.
Gullfoss waterfall
Silfra
Gullfoss came next. Fed by the glacial Hvítá river, the massive, two-tiered waterfall is widely considered one of the country’s most beautiful. In the early 20th century, Sigríður Tómasdóttir fought plans to dam the river and submerge the falls. Her campaign included legal battles and public protest — at one point, she famously threatened to throw herself into the waterfall — and ultimately succeeded in preserving the site as it stands today.
Seljalandsfoss offered a different perspective altogether. A narrow path curved behind the waterfall, allowing us to step briefly into the space between rock and water. The view outward was framed by the cascade, and the roar of the water took center stage. We left with damp jackets, wet hair and a selfie to prove it.
Iceland offers no shortage of unforgettable moments, but the chance to swim in glacial water between two tectonic plates was impossible to pass up. In Silfra, within Þingvellir National Park, the North American and Eurasian plates continue to drift apart, leaving visible fissures that slice through the lava fields. Fed by glacial melt filtered slowly through porous lava rock, Silfra’s water is startlingly clear. Wearing dry suits, my son and I floated between two continents, moving through a narrow corridor where the rock walls closed in so tightly we could touch them with outstretched arms.
Hotel Rangá hot tub
Photo by Mette Tonnessen
Hotel Rangá
Hotel Rangá felt less like a hotel and more like the home of a favorite relative. Conversations picked up easily when we returned from the day, the owner often casually joined guests for a glass of wine at dinner and small, thoughtful gestures — like a quiet heads-up when the outdoor hot tub was free — were commonplace.
With just 51 rooms, including eight luxury suites, the log cabin–style property never felt crowded. Rooms were cozy and practical, designed with Iceland’s elements in mind — thick curtains for endless summer light and warm wood interiors that made stepping in from the cold feel like a relief.
The suites draw inspiration from the continents; my South American-themed room paired bold, geometric woodwork — from the paneled ceiling to the intricately patterned door — with an Incan wool tapestry, creating a richly detailed space.
South American Junior Suite
Photo courtesy of Hotel Rangá
Reindeer steak at Rangá Restaurant
Photo by Mette Tonnessen
Rangá Observatory
Photo by Milan and Seila
Rangá Restaurant leans into local flavors, serving starters like Wild Mushroom Soup and Arctic Char alongside traditional specialties like Reindeer steak with crowberry sauce, beet and pommes Anna and Icelandic Salmon with sweet potato puree, apples, mustard seeds, fried broccoli, granola and white wine sauce.
After dinner, a brisk walk to the outdoor observatory’s two professional-grade telescopes invited a close-up look at the night sky. I was treated to a picture-perfect view of Saturn.
One of Hotel Rangá’s advantages is its remote location. Far from light pollution, it has become a reliable place to witness the northern lights. From September through early April, guests may catch the aurora borealis — shifting bands of bright green, purple and pink light — on clear nights. Wooden lounge chairs and blankets make viewing more comfortable, and hot chocolate is passed around to help keep out the chill. The hotel also offers an Aurora Wake-Up Service, ensuring guests don’t miss it if the sky comes alive overnight.
Hotel Rangá offered cozy comfort amid our adventuresome journey. We had come to Iceland to celebrate a major milestone in my son’s life, and I expected a trip filled with adventure — hikes, horses, ice caves — and it delivered all of that. Sharing it, in a place so vast and powerful, is something I’ll carry with me long after the details of the itinerary fade.
Hotel Rangá
Photo by Stefan Lierbermann
Reykjavík
Most travelers arrive to Iceland through Reykjavík, and setting time aside to explore the compact, colorful capital is well worth it. Begin your morning at Brauð & Co., where cinnamon rolls emerge warm from the oven throughout the day. Explore the pedestrian area around Skólavörðustígur (the famous “Rainbow Street”) and stop at Hallgrimskírkja, the city’s iconic hilltop church and one of its most recognizable landmarks.
Be sure to reserve one afternoon for Sky Lagoon, a geothermal spa just outside the city. Set against the North Atlantic, its infinity pool blurs the line between sea and sky, while the seven-step skjól ritual — moving between heat, cold and steam — reflects Iceland’s long-standing bathing culture.
For dinner, Skál! offers a rotating tasting menu that showcases exactly why it earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand in 2019.
Sky Lagoon
Photo courtesy of Sky Lagoon
Plan Your Trip
Where To Stay
A family-owned luxury lodge in southern Iceland, Hotel Rangá is known for its remote setting, warm hospitality and prime northern lights viewing. hotelranga.is
Getting There
Reaching Iceland from South Florida is easier than ever, thanks to Icelandair, which recently introduced direct flights from Miami to Reykjavík. The airline’s Saga Premium class provides a comfortable transatlantic experience, with wider seats, elevated service and a relaxed onboard atmosphere that feels well-suited to Iceland’s understated aesthetic. icelandair.com
Getting Around
A car is essential for exploring Iceland, particularly along the South Coast and the Golden Circle. Europcar Iceland, with pickup available at Keflavík International Airport, makes it easy to travel at your own pace. europcar.is
Guided Experiences
Southcoast Adventure offers guided outings across southern Iceland, including horseback riding, cave tours and buggy rides. The outfitter’s itineraries range from half-day excursions to more immersive experiences, with guides who emphasize local knowledge and safety in often unpredictable conditions. southadventure.is