Move Over, Napa

Oenophiles Are Toasting To A New Wine Country: Walla Walla, Washington

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Those who consider California and Oregon the country's most exciting wine destinations are missing something big - Walla Walla in southeastern Washington state.

That's right: Walla Walla, the place so nice they named it twice. Boasting more than 130 wineries producing European-style syrahs, cabernets and merlots, Walla Walla Valley and the city of Walla Walla have become the toast of oenophiles. Chef-driven restaurants, abundant outdoor activities and a nationally recognized cultural scene add to the area's allure.

"I think what best sums up Walla Walla's appeal to visitors is the combination of friendly and genuine people, authentic charm and character, and a wine and food scene that rivals destinations many times its size," says Ron Williams, CEO of Visit Walla Walla. "It's a unique blend of people and place, and one that we like to call 'rural chic Americana.'"

Experts agree that Walla Walla - which is Native American for "many waters" - is hard to resist. Last year, Sunset Magazine dubbed it the West's Best Wine Town, and Travel + Leisure recognized it as one of the world's 50 Best Places to Travel. Not surprisingly, tourism numbers continue to rise in the small town, Williams says: "This is due to a number of factors, including the national awards, accolades and recognition that Walla Walla has received in recent years; improvements in air service and infrastructure; an expanded (and still expanding) lodging offering; the establishment of new events, such as February is for Foodies; and people's desire to visit and explore new destinations."

But wine is key. Washington State is the second-largest producer of wine in the country, behind California, and the Walla Walla Valley has become known as the heart of Washington wine country because it has the highest concentration of wineries in the state. Area wineries account for more than $100 million in annual revenue to the region - which isn't limited to Washington.

"The finest wines reflect nature, and Mother Nature doesn't recognize political borders," says Ashley Mahan, CEO of Walla Walla Valley Wine Alliance. "The Walla Walla Valley American Viticultural Area is a cross border AVA, with 57 percent of its plantings in Washington State and 43 percent in Oregon."

What makes the vino so special?

"Walla Walla Valley has been a regional agricultural hub for more than a century, supplying a cornucopia of high-quality products from grains to fruits and vegetables," says Mahan. "The valley's remarkable geologic history has helped shape a highly complex and varied terroir, which in turn has enabled the production of well-balanced wines that represent the true characteristics of the Bordeaux and Rhône varietals, which flourish within the AVA."

The unique combination of climate and geology - a long growing season with hot summer days, cool nights and minimal rainfall in conjunction with land comprising volcanic and Missoula flood soils - results in ideal growing conditions for the more than 40 grape varieties planted on the 2,933 acres of vineyards.

Leonetti Cellars (established in 1977), Woodward Canyon (1981) and L'Ecole No. 41 (1983) pioneered the wine industry in the region, which received an American Viticulture Area designation in 1984 with just four wineries and 60 acres of vineyards. Today, tasting rooms abound, and the valley hosts four weekend-long wine events each year.

While the wine industry lends an air of sophistication to Walla Walla, the region's performing arts and other cultural assets should not be overlooked. Among the top venues and groups are the GESA Power House Theatre, a 342-seat performing arts theater in a 120-year-old building that was once home to a gas plant. The venue showcases professional productions, including music, comedy, films, festivals and family programs.

The Walla Walla Symphony, founded in 1907, is the oldest continually operating symphony west of the Mississippi River and has been hailed for its adventurous programming, classical concerts and tradition of performing original compositions.

Another cultural treasure, Shakespeare Walla Walla, stages professional Shakespearian theater and brings approachable productions to the area year-round.

The performing arts community offers a variety of events and festivals at Whitman College, the Little Theatre of Walla Walla, numerous live music venues, area wineries and other locations throughout the valley.

Visitors looking for good places to stay or eat won't be disappointed. Accommodation offerings range from luxury resorts to homey B&Bs. Eritage, a new high-end resort backed by Va Piano winemaker Justin Wylie and James Beard Award-winning Chef Jason Wilson, rests on 300 acres of rolling fields and offers exceptional lodging and cuisine. It's close to downtown, and every suite offers a deck or patio with views of the Blue Mountains, farmland and a lake. Because of its location within the vineyards, Eritage offers visitors an unparalleled Washington wine experience.

The 1928 Marcus Whitman Hotel in downtown Walla Walla is within walking distance of the Children's Museum, Fort Walla Walla Museum and Whitman College. Accommodations include large two-room parlor suites and spa suites in the historic tower building with Renaissance-style Italian furnishings and lots of amenities. It has an acclaimed restaurant, and guests can sample local wines at the Vineyard Lounge and at six boutique-winery tasting rooms adjacent to the lobby.

Other great places to stay include 51 East Main, which has renovated loft condos in the heart of downtown; the Inn at Abeja, a repurposed farmhouse with outbuildings that have been transformed into a winery and a B&B; and Cameo Heights Mansion, a sprawling B&B half an hour west of town in a 400-acre winery and orchard setting.

Set to open in April is the Barn B&B, which will have seven suites, each with a private garden, an outdoor shower and views of the Blue Mountains.

Penrose Walla Walla Hotel & Spa, a luxury hotel, is expected to open this year and will be located in the 1907 Odd Fellows building. Amenities will include a restaurant, a swimming pool and rooftop terraces.

Visitors never have to travel far in search of good food. There are many choices, from Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen, featuring the culinary creations of six-time James Beard finalist Chef Chris Ainsworth, to newer favorites like Hattaway's on Alder, which honors the cooking traditions of the Southeast and rural America, and Walla Walla Steak Co. in the train building downtown.

Also popular are Passatempo Taverna, with its rustic Italian cuisine, and Andrae's Kitchen at the Co-Op, serving up the best food you'll ever eat inside a gas station.

If hitting the links is on your must-do list, you're in luck. Golfers enjoy it there in part because of Walla Walla's climate, which allows for many months of play. One of the state's best public courses is Wine Valley Golf Club, which opened about 10 years ago. GolfWeek magazine ranks it third in the state among Courses You Can Play.

Those looking to pedal through wine country are in luck.

"Biking in Walla Walla is popular because we are surrounded with two-lane country roads with very little traffic, compared to higher populated areas," says Kathryn Austin of Allegro Cyclery. "People here are familiar with cycling and are pretty cooperative with the bikes on the road. Also, we have an endless variety of gravel roads to ride on that take you to breathtaking scenery galore and/or challenging bike options, which some people are definitely looking forward to. There are many non- challenging options as well." 

Cyclists are likely to encounter deer, elk, red-tailed hawks or other wildlife.

Some trails are more popular than others, Austin says.

"The winery routes are on country roads that are beautiful and are fun to ride, with moderate challenge," she explains. "We send many people of various cycling skill sets out on our rental bikes to ride what we refer to as the Braden Winery Route, where there are between 12 and 15 wineries on the 14-mile route. There are a few other routes that have wineries on them as well, but the Braden Route is the most common and favorite."

Besides the celebrated wines, challenging golf courses, cultural treasures and inviting bike trails, this part of Washington has another claim to fame: the Walla Walla sweet onion, the official state vegetable. You can only get them in season, mid-June through August, but if your travels take you to Walla Walla during that time, give them a try.

The onion's sweetness comes from a low amount of sulfur in the soil. Chefs will cook with them, of course, but they're also a treat when the onions are raw, crisp and sweet. The 35th Annual Sweet Onion Festival, set for July 20, pays tribute to the beloved veggie with chef's competitions and cooking demonstrations.

Considering that Walla Walla has so much to offer year-round, when is the best time to visit?

"Though it never gets crowded in Walla Walla, like it might be in the tasting rooms of other popular wine regions like Napa or the Willamette Valley, spring and fall are definitely quieter times of year to visit," Williams says. "Spring brings a new energy and anticipation to the valley, with bud break and the coming to life of the vineyards, while a fall visit presents the opportunity to get up close and personal with harvest and crush."

We'll drink to that. O