A Class Apart

The Joyce Is Where Cocktails, Steaks And Art Steal The Show

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Step inside The Joyce, discreetly tucked among the flamboyant tourist spots on Española Way in Miami Beach, and you’ll know you’re in for something special. The space is small, dark and intimate, with only a handful of tables and a handsome emerald-green bar. Thick, velvety curtains of the same rich hue line the main wall, creating a dramatic backdrop for an impressive art collection (if you’re lucky, you may spot the authentic Picasso) — a nod to art collector Andre Sakhai, who, along with Marc Lotenberg and Chef James Taylor, opened The Joyce in January. 

Taylor brands his cuisine as “American Nostalgia,” weaving comfort foods of his childhood with his exceptional culinary vision, which was honed at Michelin-starred establishments like Alinea and Roister.

His tenure at Bavette’s Bar and Boeuf, a venerated steakhouse in his native Chicago, sealed his mastery of the perfect steak — something South Floridians can’t seem to get enough of.

The Joyce feels mysterious and exclusive, as though you’re among the lucky few granted an invitation to dine. Scoring a table, or a coveted seat at the bar, feels like a celebration, and a worthy reason to order one of the signature cocktails. There are simple and straightforward options like the Liquid A5 (A5-washed whiskey, Armagnac and sherry) or inspired renditions like the Magic City Margarita, made with coconut mezcal, guava and smoked chile salt. If it’s wine you prefer, an exceptional selection of white, rosé and red by the glass awaits.

I had come for the steaks. Their juicy, red interiors had already taunted me on my social media feed. But dabbling in a few starters before the main event seemed like a worthwhile transgression. My table began with the Hamachi Crudo — thin, buttery-soft cuts of fish dusted with Hatch chile powder and lime zest. That was followed by Creamed Kale, Taylor’s take on a classic spinach dip, enhanced by Saint Andre cheese and paired with house-made potato chips. There are so many other tempting starters: Prime Carpaccio, Shrimp Scampi and the much-talked-about Caviar Latkes (yes, potato latkes with Ossetra caviar), but I had come with a carnivore’s mindset and needed to save room for the various steaks I wanted to try.

Listed under “The Chops” are five meat options, beginning with a Chicago Cut Ribeye — known for its generous thickness — and ending with an A5 Picanha, or top sirloin cap. There was also a Stone Axe bone-in (an Australian Wagyu) served as a special that night, and a 6-ounce A5 Filet Mignon for those wanting a smaller size (all the other cuts range from 10 to 16 ounces). My table opted for the special and the Chicago Cut Ribeye, two sizzling beauties that arrived with crusty sears and rosy, tender centers.

The meat is prepared in what Taylor calls “Chicago Style,” cooked from above using a broiler heated to about 900 degrees rather than from below with grill flames.

This creates a beautifully caramelized crust. The meat then rests for up to 45 minutes, depending on its size, allowing the juices to settle and stay sealed inside. Sides include Hand-Cut Frites with caramelized-onion aioli, Roasted Brussels Sprouts with horseradish and honey mustard and Charred Broccoli with lemon and crunchy salt.

Taylor also offers a burger, a recipe that took three years to perfect. It’s off-menu and also available from the venue’s innovative burger window, much like a Cuban-style ventanita.  

For those not craving red meat, there’s a multitude of main courses like Fire Roasted Madai, Chicken Schnitzel with Tomato Gravy and Parmigiano Reggiano; and Pasta Calamarata with Roma Tomatoes, Toasted Almonds and Pecorino Romano. Taylor also has an affinity for Chinese food, something that shines through on his menu with dishes like Shanghai Firecracker Chicken with Sweet Chilis, Fried Chilis and Dried Chilis, and, on the night I visited, a side special of Vegetable Fried Rice.

I made a mental note to choose a salad on my next visit. With options like the Emerald Avocado, chopped iceberg with honeyed bacon and Crispy Chicken Caesar Salad, it seems like a good idea to balance things out with some greens — especially after spotting those bright, tempting bowls being whisked to other tables.  

But had I ordered salad this time around, I may have risked running out of room for dessert, and that would have been very bad. Between the Sour Orange Tart and the Chicago-Style Sundae (an ice cream sundae with crispy french fries), I left the buzzing, happy space feeling full, content and with plenty of new dishes in mind for my next visit.

The Joyce is located at 448 Española Way in Miami Beach. For more information, call 786-960-4769 or visit thejoycerestaurant.com.