In a city resplendent with restaurants vying for customers’ attention (cue in neon signs, club-style velvet rope entrances or an entourage of valet drivers rushing to park your car), you may accidentally miss “Stubborn Seed” sitting quietly on a corner of Washington Avenue and First Street in Miami Beach.
That would be a mistake.
The brainchild of chef Jeremy Ford, Stubborn Seed has a hushed, almost introverted vibe — but leave the hullaballoo of its rowdier neighbors behind, grab a seat indoors or at one of the sidewalk tables and prepare for the culinary ride of your life. Folks in the know have followed Ford, 36, since his early days working under celebrated Chef Dean Max. Ford credits Max for teaching him everything from how to dress well and behave with class to planning a seasonal menu around local produce. From there he worked under Michelin-star Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten before going on to win Season 13 at “Top Chef.” On the heels of that victory Ford partnered with Grove Bay Hospitality Group and opened Stubborn Seed in 2017.
Stubborn Seed presents carefully constructed dishes focusing on harmonious, uncluttered ingredients that take the phrase “less is more” to an ethereal level.
Begin with the Cacio e Pepe Cheesy Puffs, a marriage of warm, fluffy rolls bestowed with a hearty mountain of cheese so finely shredded it dissolves in your mouth. The bread and butter pickles it’s paired with offers an ideal nudge of sour and sweet to what’s otherwise a moment of comfort food bliss. Tuna tartare has become a prerequisite on most South Florida menus so it’s easy for it to lose its wow factor when overdone. Not here. Stubborn Seed’s Yellowfin Tuna Tartare is served with sambal shoyu vinaigrette, dashi emulsion and fennel and is paired with a crisp intended to serve as the vehicle for the fish to one’s mouth or simply be devoured on its own. Oyster lovers will be pleased with chef’s Kusshi Oysters served raw. The slightly sweet and buttery bivalves come with a nectarine mignonette and unfiltered sake granita then lightly drizzled with bright herb oil.
Main courses range from Pan-roasted Barramundi (also known as Asian sea bass) with a saffron spring onion stew, kombu citrus broth and carrot puree, Prof. Torbert’s Heirloom Grits and Duroc Crispy Pork accompanied by a soft egg, aged cheddar, chili glaze and chicharrones. There’s also Koji Wagyu with cipollini, asparagus, broccoli chili puree and miso butter and Truffle Chicken — a moist and tender rendition of roast chicken served with pomme puree, Brussels sprouts and baby turnips.
If you are like me and fall victim to a bad case of indecisiveness when presented with so many enticing options, Ford graciously offers a “Tasting Menu” which provides a sampling of the restaurant’s greatest hits. Note that Stubborn Seed places freshness and quality at the pinnacle of importance, which translates to dishes rotating depending upon both seasonal availability and Ford’s scrutinous standards.
Rest assured, whatever is placed in front of you will surpass expectations, elevate your evening and make a quiet experience reverberate with extraordinary flavors created with unrelenting expertise and care. No velvet rope entrance needed here.
Stubborn Seed is located at 101 Washington Ave., Miami Beach. For more information, call 786-899-2726 or visit stubbornseed.com.
