Italian restaurants have always been a favorite, but with new ones opening seemingly every hour, it takes something special to stand out. Fortunately for South Floridians, Chef Evan Funke — already renowned for his restaurants in California, Las Vegas and Chicago — has brought his magic to Miami, delivering a swanky, flavor-packed experience impossible to overlook.
Sfincione In Bianco
Photos By Eric Wolfinger and Wonho Frank Lee
Nestled in Miami’s luxurious Design District, the restaurant feels right at home among its opulent surroundings. Italian terrazzo flooring and intricate damask wall detailing are paired with Murano glass lighting that speaks as much to Miami’s decadence as to Rome’s. A spacious sitting room with a fountain (because what is more Italian than a fountain?) greets patrons, followed by a stunning 30-foot-long bar adorned with custom antique mirrors where guests can enjoy a cocktail while waiting to be seated.
It’s clear from the restaurant’s name and its emblem that the ancient city of Rome serves as inspiration — specifically, its mythological origin story of founders Remus and Romulus and the she-wolf who nursed and raised the twins after they were abandoned. Funke — known for his bold Roman cooking at the Los Angeles and Las Vegas locations — delivers once again here. The restaurant describes these dishes as echoing Italy’s layered history of shepherds, popes, farmers and artisans.
Margherita Pizza
Begin with the signature focaccia bread. Whether you opt for the Sfincione In Bianco (extra virgin olive oil, sea salt, origano selvatico) or the more complex Sfincione Rosso (sugo di cipolla, Pecorino Romano DOP, origano selvatico, mollica), you’ll be delighted by the warm, crusty dough made with extra virgin olive oil. Starters are rustic and unassuming but packed with flavor. I chose the Gamberi In Salsa Verde (South Pacific prawns, green garlic salsa verde, lemon) — three plump, grilled prawns infused with a tangy, garlicky sauce. (Be sure to save some focaccia to mop up every last drop.) Next came the Fiori Di Zucca, delicate squash blossoms stuffed with ricotta fresca and Parmigiano Reggiano. A seasonal favorite among Italians, it arrived light and crispy, displaying an artful balance of simplicity and flavor. The Polpette Di Brasato, or short rib meatball, was more like a croquette, with each bite revealing buttery, melt-in-your-mouth short rib miraculously transformed into a meatball.
In true Roman fashion, pizza reigns supreme. All pies are executed with a focus on freshness and technique.
The Margherita (fior di latte, salsa di pomodoro, basil, extra virgin olive oil) is the ideal litmus test for a great pie, and at Mother Wolf, it excels. The wafer-thin crust is crunchy and the ingredients are fresh and straightforward. Funghi pizza showcases a mix of wild and cultivated mushrooms paired with a trio of Italian cheeses — Taleggio, scamorza and Parmigiano Reggiano. For a bit of heat, the Diavola adds salame picante and pepperoncino to the classic Margherita. La Mortazza, a celebrated dish from the Los Angeles location, thankfully has made its way to Miami. This heavenly creation features a fluffy, wood-fired pizza dough folded in half and generously stuffed with mortadella di Bologna, ricotta fresca, pistachio di Bronte and lemon agrumato. I had sampled it on my last trip to the West Coast and when I saw it on the menu, I was overjoyed.
Pasta is Funke’s happy place, and it shows. Whether you choose the Tonnarelli Cacio E Pepe (Pecorino Romano DOP, black pepper), Linguine Al Limone (Meyer lemon, basil, Parmigiano Reggiano) or Linguine Alle Vongole (manila clams, aglio, olio, pepperoncino, vino bianco), each preparation is thoughtfully created to allow every ingredient to shine.
Linguine Alle Vongole
It’s tempting (and easy) to fill up on appetizers, pizza and pasta. However, Funke delivers with proteins as well. Take, for example, the Branzino Alla Brace (grilled Mediterranean sea bass, insalata di finocchio, salsa verde, Meyer lemon) and Costata Di Manzo (50-day dry-aged, 32 oz. prime bone-in ribeye, patate fritte, wild arugula).
For dessert, traditional Italian sweets take on a Miami twist. The Tiramisu Di Miami features Key lime cream, zabaglione al mascarpone and brown butter graham cracker crust, while the Torta All’Olio D’Oliva combines Florida citrus, finocchio candito and gelato al Fiori di Sicilia for a refreshing finish.
Throughout the evening, the restaurant buzzes with activity. Waiters move jovially, delivering dishes to tables where guests celebrate anniversaries, promotions or simply a Wednesday night out. A final glass of Vino Dolci — perhaps a Moscato La Spinetta “Biancospino” Piedmont or a Barolo Chianota Pio Cesare Piedmont — ends the evening on a perfectly sweet note.
Mother Wolf Miami is located at 3841 N.E. 2nd Ave., Miami. For more information, call 305-990-0022 or visit motherwolfmiami.com.
Costata Di Manzo