Designed To Dine

A’Riva Brings Together Italian Cooking And Curated Art At Harbour Club Miami Beach

by

Review

A great meal can linger long after the last bite — but the best dining experiences begin well before the food arrives. As I approached the hostess to check in at A’Riva, my eye was immediately drawn to a striking abstract painting behind her. It was the first of many exceptional artworks showcased throughout the restaurant. The Mediterranean-Italian place is the only open-to-the-public space in Harbour Club Miami Beach, a members-only establishment inspired by London’s private clubs, which have long been known for pairing social life with art, dining and refined interiors. 

Inside, soft, neutral tones, brushed brass accents and lush plants align with a decorating style found in so many South Florida eateries nowadays. Here, though, it’s the artwork that commands attention. Procured from members’ private collections, the pieces include works by George Condo, Damien Hirst and Nicolas Party — names more often associated with contemporary galleries than restaurants.  Even the ceiling plays a role, with an expansive mural that momentarily transports diners to 16th-century Italy. 

I began with The Conversation, a mezcal old-fashioned inspired by the Condo abstract of swirling brushstrokes facing me. Layered, complex and irresistible, it was a fitting match for the painting. Soon after, an airy focaccia studded with green olives and fresh tomato, still warm from the oven, arrived, alongside a dipping dish brimming with bright, grassy olive oil.

Executive chef Michele Esposito, formerly of Miami Beach favorite Casa Tua, turns out unfussy, well-executed dishes with a touch of luxury. Take the assortment of savory mille-feuilles — tidy, impossibly thin, bite-size layers of potato topped with options such as Trout Roe, Wagyu or, for the ultimate pairing, Toro and Caviar. My guest and I happily claimed the latter.

We followed with the Beef Tartare: finely chopped meat tucked under Parmesan foam, crowned with an egg yolk, then finished with black truffle shavings. Diners mix it all together before scooping it up with the accompanying housemade potato chips. 

Appetizers also include a full selection of crudos. We sampled the Tuna Carpaccio, accented with truffle, yuzu and crispy sunchokes, while our neighboring table — two teenage girls deep in conversation — polished off the Crudo Trio of salmon, tuna and hamachi.  

Don’t skip the Harbour Club Caesar: Its generous mound of crisp gem lettuce, lavishly dressed with Parmesan vinaigrette and focaccia breadcrumbs, make it impossible to stop eating. Zucchini Flowers, breaded and fried until golden, resemble elegant croquettes; the filling of ricotta salata, mozzarella and basil is soft and fragrant. A return visit already felt inevitable, not just for the crudo I’d watched the young diners enjoy so thoroughly, but for temptations like Meatballs Angelina (beef, eggplant, tomato, Parmesan and basil) and the Nut-Crusted Salmon with pistachio, walnuts and Dijon mustard. We passed on both this time to save room for what came next. 

That was pasta, which at A’Riva spans from the straightforward, like Spaghetti Pomodoro, to the more complex, like Cavatelli Ricotta Duck Ragu, whose slow-simmered sauce is made from duck-bone broth to render a deep, rich flavor. Other standouts include the Sweet Corn Agnolotti, soft pillows filled with fresh kernels and ricotta, touched with black truffle; Tagliolini A’Limone with crème fraîche and trout roe (or caviar, if you’re so inclined); and Spaghetti Alla Nerano, featuring zucchini flowers, baby zucchini, basil and Parmesan. 

There are enough exceptional pastas here to make an entire meal, but in true Italian fashion, my guest and I forged on to the secondi. Branzino All’Acqua Pazza, prepared with tomato, olives, potatoes and lemon, is light and comforting at once. Chicken Milanese satisfies those craving familiarity, while the Filet Mignon, an 8-ounce cut served with spinach, pine nuts, raisins and jus, demonstrates the kitchen’s confidence on the grill. Dishes meant for two include Dover Sole Alla Mugnaia finished in a classic lemon-butter sauce, a Whole Rack of Lamb and a formidable 42-ounce Kosher Wagyu Tomahawk. 

We were enticed by the Tableside Eggplant Parm and watched with glee as the server wheeled over a cart and split open a steaming roasted eggplant before assembling it with marinara, pesto, Parmesan and a creamy layer of stracciatella. 

For dessert, the pistachio gelato steals the show. A generous mound sprinkled with crushed pistachios arrives, then is drizzled with a warm pistachio cream that sets into a delicate, buttery shell.

Before I left, I headed to the restrooms, where a quiet corridor doubles as a rotating gallery, turning what could be an afterthought into one last moment of discovery. At A’Riva, appreciation for both art and for food comes layered, leaving me thinking just as much about the paintings as the meal — and eager to return for both. 

A’Riva is located at 1766 Bay Rd., Miami Beach. For more information, visit arivarestaurant.com.