Hot Dog Panini
Food photos by Piper jones
Clay Conley has earned a devoted following in Palm Beach, where, for more than 15 years, he has drawn diners to Buccan with modern American fare that is layered with skill and flavor. The restaurant caught the nation’s attention as well, helping earn Conley seven James Beard Award nominations and praise from The New York Times, Robb Report and Condé Nast Traveler, among others.
Clay Conley
Photo courtesy of Buccan
Now Conley has brought his talents to Miami. In May, he opened a Buccan Sandwich Shop on Coral Gables’ famed Miracle Mile, followed by the second location of his flagship restaurant. The formula remains unchanged: exceptional cooking in a setting that is refreshingly free of pretense.
Step inside the new Buccan, and it’s clear the concept has traveled well. The bar at the entrance is packed, while the expansive dining room beyond is cleverly divided into intimate pockets by curved archways and black-framed glass partitions. Marble-topped tables, flickering candlelight and moss-green leather chairs soften the soaring ceiling and exposed ductwork. Even early in the evening, the restaurant hums with conversation as servers weave between full tables, making it feel less like a newcomer than a longtime local favorite.
The menu is concise, with a thoughtful selection of tapas-style dishes organized under five simple headings: Crudo, Plant, Classic, Pasta and Large. Crudos include Island Creek (MA) Oysters with plum ponzu, umeboshi and shiso. Each buttery, gently briny oyster gets a bright, tart lift and a fresh herbal note. Order the Steak Tartare, and you’ll understand why the crispy egg yolk topper has made the dish a Buccan legend.
There are salads, and then there are Clay Conley salads.
Whether you opt for the Grilled Carrots (with French curry, lentils, green goddess dressing and coconut crunch) or the Sesame Crusted Eggplant (with sesame, red zhug, herb baba ghanoush and whole-wheat pita), the unexpected combinations will quickly win you over.
Short Rib Empanadas
Sweet Corn Agnolotti
Under Classics, the Short Rib Empanadas pay tribute to South Florida’s Latin American influences. Each pastry is packed with tender, seasoned beef that tastes straight out of an abuelita’s Sunday dinner, paired with salsa criolla and ají amarillo for a spicy finish. The Hot Dog Panini features sauerkraut, Gruyère, mustard and chili and is a prime example of Conley’s gift for taking a ballpark staple and turning it into the talk of the table. For something lighter, the Local Watermelon & Tomato Salad blends oc cham (Vietnamese fish sauce) with Thai basil and sesame chili crunch.
It is entirely possible to make a meal out of the Pasta section. The Truffle Tagliatelle with Wagyu “Bolo-Bianco,” Porcini and fresh black summer truffle earns high praise, as does the Squid Ink Orecchiette, in which Italian sausage and conch play together surprisingly well, with basil and oven-dried cherry tomatoes adding a touch of freshness. The Sweet Corn Agnolotti with ricotta, bacon and Espelette butter emerges as the unexpected darling of the menu. Its filling bursts with the sweetness of peak-season corn, a reminder that even the simplest ingredients can command attention in Conley’s hands.
Pace yourself: Choices such as the Gilled Local Swordfish with sunchokes, chanterelles and cipollini agrodolce and the Prime NY Strip with smoked onion soubise, Bordelaise and pickled ramps reward anyone who has exercised restraint earlier in the meal. For pure American comfort, little compares to the Prime Beef Burger. Served on a housemade brioche bun with aged cheddar, lettuce, tomato, onion, cornichons and rémoulade and a side of Parmesan fries, it is everything a great burger should be.
Steak Tartare
Buccan T
The drinks deserve attention, too, with cocktails such as the Buccan T (citrus vodka, black tea, cranberry, basil and agave nectar) and the Mojito Meets Champagne (dark rum, mint, lime and bubbles). The wine list is just as inviting, opening with a line attributed to Ernest Hemingway: “My only regret in life is that I did not drink more wine.” The selection that follows, with bottles like Bodega Garzón Reserva Albariño from Uruguay and Tempo d’Angélus Bordeaux, makes a persuasive case for taking his advice.
End on a light note with the delicate Coconut Panna Cotta, served with meringue kisses and seasonal tropical fruit, or go all in with the Chocolate Layer Cake, a rich milk chocolate cake layered with dark chocolate and hazelnut praline filling, served with vanilla ice cream. Either choice brings the meal to a fitting finish — and offers one last reason to celebrate Conley’s arrival in Coral Gables.
Buccan Coral Gables is located at 100 Miracle Mile, Coral Gables. For more information, call 305-701-9912 or visit buccancoralgables.com.