South Florida has been privy to a bounty of Mediterranean restaurants in the last few years. I’m a huge fan — after all, I’m the daughter of an Israeli, so growing up, hummus, tabouli and grilled fish were commonplace. When I learned that Aba, an established Mediterranean eatery with outposts in Chicago and Austin, was coming to town, I set out for a visit.
“Aba” means father in Hebrew, and while the restaurant does offer dishes from my father’s homeland, it also showcases items from Lebanon, Turkey and Greece, all of whom boast fresh, uncomplicated flavors, often served as sharing plates.
Located in the posh Bal Harbour Shops, the spacious restaurant aims to evoke summer in the Mediterranean coast. Numerous full-sized olive trees, climbing ivy and hanging plants create a feeling of having arrived at a picturesque farmhouse garden. Gold Moroccan light fixtures and Parisian streetlamps provide warm light and French-style doors open up to a wonderful patio for those craving alfresco dining.
While you’ll recognize the names of a lot of the dishes, the unique spin in which they are prepared make them stand out from the crowd. Take, for example, the hummus, the popular chickpea-based dip making an appearance in many restaurants. Aba offers five varieties, each worthy of a try. The Smoky Garlic, which comes with ceci (chickpeas), Aleppo and Urfa peppers and tangy preserved lemon is bright and creamy and topped with micro greens and crunchy, fried chickpeas for added texture. It scoops gloriously well with freshly made pita bread which arrives piping hot.
Short Rib
For those craving a bit of protein with their hummus, the Spicy Lamb Ragu features hummus crowned with a generous mound of buttery braised lamb shoulder and a smoky, slightly spicy harissa sauce.
Then there are the true riffs of this staple Mediterranean appetizer: Butternut Squash hummus (served with brown butter, nutmeg and pepitas) looked and tasted more like a side dish befitting the Thanksgiving table but worked wonders when scooped up with chunks of pita. Lastly, the Avocado Hummus With Maine Lobster, Aba’s ode to guacamole, arrives dotted with tender lobster meat alongside sungold tomato, fresno chili and Thai basil.
Don’t fill up on hummus, there are other spreads worth a try. Muhammara (roasted pepper, isot chili, walnut and pomegranate molasses) is a favorite Syrian dish that’s well represented and Spinach Labneh with blueberry, dill and chili oil is another out-of-the-box interpretation of a beloved soft cheese spread.
Smoky Garlic Hummus
I also sampled dishes that don’t originate from any of the countries the restaurant is representing but earn my love for their flavor, nonetheless. The house made Stracciatella comes to mind. While the plating did not match the artful presentation prevalent in other dishes, the flavors were on point, most notably, the fresh Italian cheese that oozed with a creamy center. Contrary to the haphazard presentation of the Stracciatella, the Hamachi appetizer was almost too pretty to eat. Thin slices of tender Hamachi arrive flanked with lightly charred avocado, ginger scallion, kiwi slices and a desert hibiscus vinaigrette that rendered a bright, pink blush to the entire dish.
Main courses run the gamut from Grilled Lambchops, Crispy Chicken Thigh, Tamarind-braised Short Rib and Diver Scallops with fig, fenugreek and a sumac and date vinaigrette.
There are also kebabs — grilled mushroom, Ora King salmon and beef tenderloin, to name a few. My guest and I opted for the lambchops, which were moist and not shy of flavor and the Beef Tenderloin Kebab paired with zhoug, a fresh, herb forward spicy sauce that delivered the right amount of heat. We also sampled the scallops, which, while they were a bit on the smaller size, were beautifully prepared: perfectly seared on the outside and tender on the inside.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF RUBEN PICTURES
Side dishes did not live up to the other offerings sampled. Crispy Potatoes with mizithra (Greek whey cheese), rosemary and scallion crema sounded enticing, however my guest and I were saddened to find dry, flavorless potatoes arrive. The same went with the Truffled Baked Orzo (baked truffle, parmesan, garlic breadcrumbs, chive and lemon zest), which was so off the mark it appeared to have arrived from another restaurant. At the time of my visit, Aba had been opened less than a month, so I will attribute the misses as tweaks needing repair and trust that the manager — who appeared nothing less than receptive to the constructive criticism — ensured all issues were ironed out.
Aba certainly caught my attention with its creative approach to classical Mediterranean fare, proper execution of grilled dishes and delightful ambiance set on inviting one to linger and enjoy. If you want to do that with something sweet, desserts include Halva with roasted grapes, Marcona almonds and a date bar and Bougatsa, a phyllo pastry with vanilla custard, cinnamon sugar streusel and orange blossom. Or you could order another glass of wine — there’s a thoughtful selection that includes lesser found, exceptional Lebanese bottles.
Aba is located at Bal Harbour Shops, 9700 Collins Ave., Ste. 101, Bal Harbour. For more information, call 305-677-2840 or visit abaresstaurants.com/miami.
