We’ve all heard about the hardships of running a successful restaurant. And in a growing dining scene overridden with glitz and glamour (it is Miami, after all), we have our share of expensive, disappointing meals. That’s reason enough to celebrate the longevity of The River Oyster Bar, which marks a monumental 20 years in operation this year, but enjoy a meal at the unassuming eatery in downtown Miami and you’ll understand why the bulk of its visitors are life-long patrons.
Clams & Linguine
The inviting space is clean and modern with an industrial vibe. Wood accents abound (check out the ceiling, said to be inspired by waves), emerald green velvet chairs add a rich pop of color and a wrap-around bar welcomes all. Warm lighting, life-size fish sculptures and countless photographs of fishermen beaming with their prized catch give the place a homey feel, as if you’ve wandered into your favorite uncle’s house for dinner. The staff — a rare blend of knowledgeable and unpretentious, guide you through the menu, offering suggestions chased by the irrefutable truth that everything is divine. You may want to take a beat to study the offerings or simply soak in the ambiance: either way, I suggest you order a cocktail.
The Smokey Widow (Apple-Oak Barrel Aged Widow Jane Bourbon, Orange Bitters and Brown Sugar), is the name for the Old-Fashioned, easily one of the best in town.
A concise and selective wine list is another smart option, with choices that pair well with the extensive menu.
Start with the oysters, it is in the name of the restaurant, after all. There’s a healthy selection of bivalves spanning from Maine to British Columbia. Not sure what to get? Just ask the server and you’ll get a quick and clarifying explanation of the nuances of each one. Still indecisive? Then do as I did and ask for one of each kind: it’s a fun way to explore the varying merroir, a term adapted from viticulture’s “terroir” to indicate how the currents, water temperature and runoff from the land contribute to the flavor profile. I’ve been a fan of oysters since I can remember, first introduced to them as a kid on the beaches of Venezuela where oystermen would wander the shores with buckets full, selling them for less than the limes they squeezed on top. Savoring these, all of which burst with ocean flavors, instantly brought me back to my youth.
From there go on to the Crudo selection — whether you’re a ceviche lover (the Ceviche Mixto is a wonderful blend of snapper, shrimp and octopus) or are craving local catch like the Snapper Tiradito with aji amarillo, tomato ceviche and cancha, all options are refreshing and engaging. Appetizers are plentiful and varied. I couldn’t resist A Pot Of Mussels, which was just that: delicate mussels simmered in a coconut milk-lemongrass broth served with a chunk of crusty baguette. You’ll quickly become a pro at multitasking: slurping the bright, slightly sweet amber liquid, soaking up that same sauce with pieces of bread and enjoying the tender bivalves. It’s no wonder this is one of the restaurant’s bestselling dishes. Pro-Tip: You can ask for a larger portion as a main dish. Other popular starters are the Goat Cheese Croquettes served with Fig Jam, Crab Cakes with Remoulade, Parsley-Celeriac Salad and Lemon Vinaigrette and Thai Barbequed Ribs with Pickled Cucumber Salad.
I spotted the wood-burning oven upon entering the restaurant, making a mental note not to forget sampling dishes kissed by its heat.
Whether it’s the Clams Casino, Roasted Oysters with Sofrito Butter, Manchego and Chorizo or one of the flatbreads, diners can’t go wrong. My table opted for the Shiitake Mushroom Flatbread with Mozzarella, Aged Balsamic and Truffle and found it to be the perfect marriage of woody, umami flavor and gooey cheese heightened by the vinegar and truffle. There’s also a Boquerones Flatbread — boasting a thin coating of tangy tomato sauce and arugula and dotted with boquerones, an elevated cousin to anchovies that is much less salty and packed with flavor.
Oysters On The Half Shell
If you come here on a date, it’s highly possible you will regret it. Not because of the atmosphere, which is both intimate and jovial, but because, as you peruse the tantalizing entrée selection, you’ll realize you want to order everything. For that reason, a wiser move may be arriving with a hungry posse. I’m a sucker for gnocchi, so when I spotted the Creamy Gnocchi & Jumbo Lump Blue Crab dish, I was sold. The fact that it arrives with Parmesan and black summer truffle? Even better. The potato-based comfort staple was light and tender and bathed in a creamy, sweet crab sauce that made my heart skip a beat.
And since we’re already talking Italian food, be sure not to pass up the Clams & Linguini. The bowl of al dente pasta arrives with a generous distribution of plump clams, smoked chilis and crispy pork belly that adds a subtle smoky flavor. Red Snapper Curry with Bok Choy and Shimeji Mushrooms, served over Sticky Rice and Fisherman’s Stew (a tomato-based dish similar to Cioppino) are additional examples of the kitchen’s skill and the Salt Baked Bronzino with Creamy Farro-Primavera and Pistou (an olive oil and basil sauce) is a showstopper.
There’s a whole other section on the menu called “Simply Prepared Fish” that is just that: a long list of options (with the place of origin) that can be grilled, baked or prepared “A La Plancha” (on the griddle). With seafood this fresh and expertly prepared, the accompaniments offered like Papaya Chutney, Fra Diavola Butter or Scotch Bonnet Salsa are an ideal pairing. Side dishes like French Fries with rosemary and sea salt, Wood Oven Roasted Artichokes and Fried Blue Crab Brown Rice add heft to the dining experience.
Even those not craving seafood will come away happy. Between the Peruvian Style Roasted Organic Chicken served with Yuca Frite and Creamy Green Sauce and the “Brasstown Beef” — North Carolina 10 Oz. Prime NY Strip with Roasted Creamer Potatoes, Grilled Asparagus and Porcini Butter (there’s also an 8-ounce tenderloin and a 22-ounce dry-aged prime bone-in rib eye), the restaurant does not shy away from excellence no matter what ends up on the table.
A Pot Of Mussels
Which leads us to dessert. And in an effort to live life without regrets, I encourage you not to pass on The River Oyster Bar’s sweet endings. For starters, the Five Layer Coconut Cake with Rum Anglaise. It lives up to everything you just imagined. Sticky Toffee Pudding Cake is as good (or better) as the best bear hug you’ve ever received. Kids (and adults!) will want the Smore’s Tart with a Graham Cracker Crust and Burnt Meringue. The list goes on: Pumpkin Cream Pie, Goat Cheese Panna Cotta with Dried Fruit Compote and Port-Poached Blueberries and a classic Apple-Blueberry Crisp that is reminiscent of blissful summer memories.
It’s refreshing to find a place doing things right: serving fresh, tasty food in a friendly, inviting space. As simplistic as that sounds, it seems harder and harder to find these days. Rest assured that at The River Oyster Bar, whether you are headed for ½ priced oysters during Happy Hour (4:30-7 p.m.) or a full meal (there’s also a mouthwatering brunch on Sundays), you’ll be pleased with how well it hits the mark on your visit — and all the ones that will follow.
The River Oyster Bar Miami is located at 33 S.E. 7th St., Suite 100, Miami. For more information, call 305-530-1915 or visit therivermiami.com.