Croatia Is Calling

If an innate passion for travel courses through your veins, as it does for me, chances are you’ve heard of Croatia and one of its most prized gems: the Dalmatian Coast. Home to an impressive array of over 1,200 islands, this region is best explored by sea, a fact underscored by the myriad of boats that gracefully line the country’s extensive 1,000-mile coastline. Enter Goolets, the Slovenian-based yacht company chartering superyachts, the epitome of opulence and the preferred form of cruising for your average billionaire. The best part? You get to enjoy a celebrity-like travel adventure at a surprisingly accessible price point. A week-long voyage aboard Cristal, a 160-foot, 15-cabin vessel complete with 11 crew members, has a starting price that ranges from 90,000 to 100,000 euros, which, at the maximum quota of 30 guests, is a sum comparable to the price of an upscale cruise.

“With other companies, it’s about the yacht and the set itinerary and then they are done with you,” says Director of Sales and Marketing Aymen Boulehmi. “We always have a person available for anything that you will need — any time.”

Anything means virtually anything. Past requests have included a romantic candlelit dinner on a secluded island, orchestrating a helicopter reunion for a fretful child and their beloved teddy bear and even delivering a specific pizza from Italy via dinghy.

“It has a price, but we do it,” Boulehmi explains, before clarifying, “But it has to be legal, of course.”

During my stay aboard Cristal, there was no need to order takeout from Italy. I enjoyed fine cuisine featuring delectable options like smoked duck on toast, lamb chops with eggplant and tomato and grilled fish plucked from the sea that same day, making mealtimes a highly anticipated event nestled between sunbathing sessions, naps and playful interludes with an array of water toys.

Cristal originally began as a cabin charter, booking rooms individually instead of chartering the entire yacht to a group. In 2020, owners Andrija Marasović and his wife Tatjana joined forces with Goolets and saw their bookings take off. The vessel’s sleek, modern design includes revamped cabins, an expansive dining area, a sundeck complete with a jacuzzi, plush sun loungers ideal for siestas and hammock chairs to swing in while absorbing the mesmerizing vista. Come the 2024 season (May-October), additional high-end amenities will include a cinema room, more water toys and a spacious and luxurious master ensuite cabin.

Split

My trip began in Split, Croatia’s second-largest city after the capital Dubrovnik and, for fans of the HBO hit series “Game of Thrones,” one of the show’s filming locations. Arriving a few hours before embarking allowed for exploring the picturesque city dotted with terracotta rooftops, cobblestone streets and plenty of stunning views. Wandering through the narrow stone alleyways lined with shops adorned with blue and green shutters, it’s clear to see why Split was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979.

The ruins of Diocletian’s Palace, an ancient structure built for the Roman emperor between 295 and 305 A.D., lie in the heart of Split and serve as a base for much of its thriving businesses. Gelato is big in Croatia, and in Split you’ll find a gelateria practically on every street corner. I recommend savoring a cone (fig and ricotta; lemon and lavender; and chocolate and hazelnut are top contenders) and securing one of the many benches on Riva, the city’s palm-tree-lined promenade, to people-watch or simply take in the ocean view.

Food enthusiasts will want to head to The Pazar, the outdoor green market just outside the palace. Nearby, duck into the fish market for a quick peek at the day’s catch, typically an assortment of bass, shrimp and squid. Behind the fish market is Kruščić, a cozy bakery housed within what used to be an 11th-century convent. Everything is exceptional, but don’t miss sampling the “burek,” a traditional savory phyllo dough pastry filled with fresh white cheese and/or spinach.

Split is home to one of the oldest, still operational synagogues in Europe. Built into the western wall of Diocletian’s Palace, it was created out of two medieval houses in the 16th century, in what was then the Jewish ghetto. There is no permanent rabbi today, but the roughly 100 members still gather in the tiny second-story space, oftentimes visited by rabbis from Dubrovnik.

Anchors Away!

While I could have easily lingered longer in Split, it was time to board Cristal and commence my superyacht adventure. My guest and I were ushered to our cabin, a spacious and contemporary retreat featuring plush beds and a private bathroom stocked with modern amenities. Maximizing space at sea is always a challenge, but Cristal surpasses expectations by providing enough storage areas to accommodate two over-packers like us. A large window affords a calming view of the ocean.

With a welcome glass of champagne in hand, we departed from Split’s port and embarked on our Adriatic journey. One of the advantages of cruising along the Dalmatian Coast is the proximity of the islands. The travel time between the islands, ranging from one to four hours, not only minimizes the duration between stops but also reduces your carbon footprint, thanks to the shorter cruising time on the yacht.

“We aren’t zero emission, but we are getting better,” Boulehmi says. “We try to use less fuel, we tell the client, ‘You don’t need to travel that much or that far.’”

Beyond the cabin, there are several spaces to relax, preferably with a glass of champagne or cocktail (thanks to the two skilled bartenders aboard). The recently refurbished Sundeck is a popular hangout featuring teak floors, chaise lounges and swinging chairs outfitted with soft pillows, instantly transforming a day at sea into a true holiday. And let’s not forget the aforementioned jacuzzi, offering the ultimate indulgence.

For those wanting to get their exercise in, a stationary bike awaits and there is an inflatable waterslide beckoning those channeling their inner child. The Bow Deck and Lounge Area one level below provide ample seating under shade and easy access to the bar, where I highly recommend familiarizing yourself with Croatian wine, a soon-to-be favorite.

Hvar

Our first port of call was Hvar, known as Croatia’s party island for its many clubs and bars. Arriving in the late afternoon, I was pleasantly surprised to find that it wasn’t overrun by revelers — perhaps because it was October, the tail end of the season. Instead, a rewarding challenge awaited: a climb up steep cobbled steps through a pine forest to reach Fortica, the medieval castle perched high above the town. Built on the site of an ancient Illyrian settlement that dates back to 500 B.C., its layered history includes the Byzantines, the Turks and the Austrians. Arriving just as the sun set, the town below was cast in a gold hue, affording a spectacular view of the bay and the Pakleni Islands beyond, making the hike well worth the effort.

Vis

Next on our itinerary was the tranquil island of Vis, one of the farthest from the mainland and among the most pristine, primarily because it served as a military base during World War II, halting any development for over four decades.

An early riser, I spent the morning meandering through the town as schoolchildren bearing bulky backpacks passed by. They would vanish around a corner and reappear minutes later, holding a cup brimming with dime-sized fried balls coated with powdered sugar and chocolate syrup. “Fritule,” a local woman explained when I followed the crowd to a small shop specializing in the delicacy.

Resembling miniature doughnut holes, the fritters are a staple along the Croatian coast and a popular treat for kids on their way to class. With my own serving of fritule in hand, I continued to explore Vis while savoring the warm, crunchy dough, making a mental note of the shops to return to when they opened. In addition to exceptional wines (the origins of which date back to the Ancient Greeks), Croatia is renowned for its extra virgin olive oil, jams, figs and artisan products such as olive wood bowls and handcrafted jewelry — all of which are readily available here.

Brač

Bobovišća Bay on the island of Brač was our next stop. Andrija, Cristal’s captain, located a secluded harbor — another benefit of traveling at the end of the season — and dropped anchor. Surrounded by dramatic limestone cliffs and fragrant pine tree forests, the azure water was calm and perfect for a refreshing swim or testing the SeaBob (an absolute blast). Others zipped around on the E-foil or Jet Ski and the array of paddleboards and snorkeling gear added to the entertainment in this bucolic slice of paradise.

Of course, you can opt to take it all in from any of Cristal’s comfortable, dry spots, possibly with an espresso martini in hand. After all, Goolets places one thing above all else: ensuring that each customer experiences the journey of their dreams.

Croatia’s allure extends beyond the seas — from ancient ruins of Split to the picturesque town of Vis, each port of call reveals a unique facet of this captivating country. It’s evident why 40% of Goolets’ customers come back for more. After all, who wouldn’t want to explore one of the world’s most gorgeous destinations while basking in luxury, attended by a seasoned crew and indulging in exquisite food, wine and cocktails aboard a stunning superyacht?