Portugal’s Prodigy

There’s a newcomer in Miami’s booming culinary landscape that is causing quite a buzz. Sereia, a modern Portuguese restaurant in Coconut Grove, is the result of the collaboration between Chef Henrique Sá Pessoa and Sault Hospitality, founded by local restaurateurs Jourdan Binder, Sven Vogtland and Alan Drummond.

While Sá Pessoa may not be a familiar name here, in his home country of Portugal, the 47-year-old is a celebrated icon, not only for his string of successful eateries, with his best-known being Lisbon’s Alma, (winner of two Michelin Awards) to others dotting the globe in Amsterdam, London and Macau. Yet his foray into cooking began in the U.S., where he arrived during an exchange program in high school, then stayed to study at the Pennsylvania Institute of Culinary Arts in Pittsburgh, Pa. From there he’d continue to London, then Australia, explaining the impact these diverse experiences had on him.

“Working abroad isn’t just about culinary skills; it’s about personal growth and maturity. Interacting with different people, nationalities and cuisines enriches not only your skills but also your character. These experiences were pivotal in shaping my career, both technically and personally,” Sá Pessoa says.

While his time abroad honed his expertise in international culinary techniques, it inadvertently affected his proficiency in the traditional cuisine of his native Portugal.

“Upon returning to Portugal after eight years abroad, I realized I needed a deeper understanding of Portuguese cuisine, which frustrated me. So, I delved into mastering it. I leveraged my international exposure to shape my recipes, merging them with my newfound knowledge of Portuguese cuisine.”

The result was an elevated Portuguese food dining experience that had not been experienced before.

When Sá Pessoa decided to enter the U.S. market, opening a restaurant in South Florida was a no-brainer.

“The reason why I chose Miami is that I went there for the first time in 2018 and immediately fell in love with the city. It was love at first sight. I’ve been to New York before … as much as I love it and enjoy spending time there, it’s very fast-paced and competitive and has a more rigid culinary scene. Miami, on the other hand, is in its early stages gastronomically. There’s been a revolution in the restaurant scene, particularly in fine dining, which is relatively new to Miami. I wanted to be a part of this culinary movement,” Sá Pessoa says.

He also noted there are few Portuguese eateries in the area and none showcasing the refined, contemporary interpretation found at Sereia, which he explains is seafood-forward inspired by the Iberian coast as well as his many travels.

Highlights include Vieiras Marinadas, marinated scallops with Sereia royal caviar; Bacalhau à Brás, a signature of Sá Pessoa’s and traditional Portuguese dish made with salted cod and fried string potatoes and Arroz de Carabineiro, a rice dish made with Scarlett prawns found in the deep, cold waters off the coast of Algarve in Southern Portugal. And while seafood is prominent on the menu, dishes like Bochechas de Novilho (red wine-braised beef cheeks) and Barriga de Porco de Leite Confitada (confit milk-fed pork belly) are showstoppers as well.

Enjoy one meal here and it is understandable why there are no shortages of accolades for this warm and approachable chef. In 2022 and 2023 he received the Best Chef Awards Top 100 and has served as an ambassador for Estrella Damm, where he is in good company among other culinary icons including Joan Roca, Andoni Aduri and Albert Adrià. He’s made countless television appearances, including a culinary journey through Lisbon with the late Anthony Bourdain on his memorable series “No Reservations” and, more recently, with Phil Rosenthal on his hit show, “Somebody Feed Phil.” Sá Pessoa hosted popular shows like “Entre Pratos” and “Ingrediente Secreto” in Portugal. His latest TV project, “Comtradição,” airing on the 24 Kitchen channel, has become a ratings leader, inspiring a book of the same name now in its fourth edition.

Yet, for all his success, he remains grounded and focused on his passion for cooking, keenly cognizant and appreciative of the impact it has on others as well.

“I know it’s important to educate people on how to eat and how to cook. It’s important because food is not just about eating; it’s also about culture, education and talking about food together with people you care about. There are so many elements of our life, in our health, our pleasure and being at the table sharing experiences with your family and friends — this is all something you do around food. When you can share a passion and influence people on cooking experiences, I think it’s always positive, especially when people come to me on the streets and say, ‘I started cooking because of you,’ or, ‘My daughter wants to be a chef because she sees you on TV.’ It’s a big responsibility, but it’s also gratifying to know that your work impacts people’s lives.” 

Tuna Tataki And Vegetable Escabeche

Serves 2

For the vegetable escabeche:

• 1 small carrot, julienned

• 1 red bell pepper, julienned

• 1 yellow bell pepper, julienned

• ½ Spanish yellow onion, julienned

• 3 garlic cloves, minced

• ¼ bunch cilantro, chopped

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 2 tablespoons sherry wine vinegar

• 1 tablespoon sugar

• salt to taste

In a mixing bowl, whisk the sugar into the sherry wine vinegar until dissolved. Keep separate.

Heat a sauté pan to medium-high heat and add the olive oil and onion with a pinch of salt. Sauté for 2 minutes, then add the sliced peppers and carrot with another pinch of salt. Cook for about 4 minutes to wilt lightly. Add the minced garlic and cook for 30 seconds until it becomes fragrant.

Add the sherry wine vinegar and sugar mixture to the sautéed vegetables and mix on low heat for 1 minute (a light sauce will form at the bottom of the pan).

Remove the pot from the heat. Strain the vegetables out and squeeze them lightly in a colander to extract the sauce. Check the seasoning on both items and chill them separately.

For the tuna tataki:

• ¼ pound fresh sushi-grade tuna loin, cut into a 2” x 6” rectangles

• 3 tablespoons olive oil

• salt to taste

Season the tuna with salt. Heat a sauté pan to medium-high heat and add the olive oil. Sear the tuna for 20 seconds on each side, not allowing it to brown. Remove the tuna from the pan and chill in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour. Once chilled, slice into ¼ ” medallions.

For the tomato tartare:

• 2 plum Roma tomatoes

• ½ teaspoon minced chives

• 1 tablespoon olive oil

• 1 teaspoon sherry wine vinegar

• salt to taste

Cut the tomatoes into quarters and remove the inner pulp and seeds to reveal 4 equal tomato petals. Slice the tomato petals into small cubes and season with olive oil, sherry wine vinegar, chives and salt.

To arrange the dish:

Using a ring mold or round cookie cutter, place the seasoned tomato mixture in the bottom of the mold in the center of a plate. Season the tuna slices with some olive oil and salt, then fan the tuna slices over the tomato mixture. Arrange a small mound of the chilled vegetable escabeche over the tuna. Finally, drizzle the vinaigrette sauce around the plate and over the vegetables and tuna. Garnish with cilantro leaves and serve immediately.