Bistro Brilliance

Life in South Florida can often be stressful and hectic. Chef Thomas Keller’s newest restaurant, Bouchon Coral Gables, serves as the ideal retreat.

Nestled in Miami’s Coral Gables neighborhood within the historic La Palma building, entering this charming French bistro feels like being whisked away to a place that’s not only kinder and friendlier, but also delectably inviting.

For starters, upon entry there’s a gorgeous bar that beckons. I was grateful to have arrived before my dinner companion, providing the perfect opportunity to grab a seat and indulge in a pre-dinner drink. There are traditional French cocktails like the Boulevardier and St. Germain Spritz; however, I ordered a martini with extra olives and was very pleased with its well-balanced flavor. When it comes to wines, there is an extensive and carefully curated selection with a hearty focus on vintners from California and France and an impressive array of champagnes, white burgundies and rosés catering to South Florida’s warm climate. Not sure what to choose? No worries — the approachable sommelier is always ready with expert recommendations.

Open for lunch and dinner, Bouchon Coral Gables offers a comfortable selection of traditional French bistro fare. Our server suggested the Grand Plateau (a selection of lobster, oysters, shrimp, clams and mussels). As avid oyster aficionados, we chose a half-dozen raw oysters. Four different varieties (a mix of East and West Coast) arrived, each more delicate than the next. Many are exclusively harvested for Keller’s nine restaurants, the result of years fostering relationships with purveyors.

Other appetizers worth noting are the Terrine de Foie Gras de Canard, a creamy and decadent starter served in a glass jar and paired with freshly baked toasted baguette (all bread is baked in-house) and Tartare de Boeuf (beef tartare with radishes, cornichons, frisée and horseradish crème fraÎche, served with grilled pain de campagne). The Escargots de Bourgogne, a favorite of many Francophiles, is a dreamy marriage of escargots and parsley-garlic butter topped with individual buttery Bouchon Bakery puff pastries.

For our main course, we couldn’t pass on the quintessential bistro dish: Steak Frites, a pan-seared flat iron steak with caramelized shallots and maître d’hôtel butter paired with a heap of french fries.

When we were torn between the Moules au Safran (saffron mussels) and the special dish of pan-seared salmon over lentils. Our server’s enthusiasm over the salmon helped us make our decision, something we did not regret. Other hits include Gigot d’Agneau (roasted leg of lamb with brown butter flageolet beans, garlic confit and lamb jus) and Truite Grenobloise (sautéed Idaho rainbow trout with cauliflower florets, capers, lemon suprêmes and brioche and beurre noisette). And while my table did not order it, the Poulet Rôti (marble potatoes, bacon lardons, onion confit, hen of the woods mushrooms and chicken jus) was the dish I saw most frequently delivered to neighboring tables.

The side dishes are straightforward and divine: Champignons de Paris (button mushrooms glazed with veal jus) and Purée de Pommes de Terre (about the creamiest mashed potatoes I’ve ever had) were top contenders. Patrons can also indulge in caviar and cheese plates.

Despite being full, we ordered dessert. The Crème Brûlée has a velvety texture and a thin, crisp, caramelized crust and the Profiteroles with Vanilla Ice Cream and Chocolate Sauce are a must. At the talented hand of Pastry Chef Courtney Kenyon, desserts reinforced the eatery’s commitment to delivering an exceptional meal from start to finish.

Bouchon Coral Gables aims to be welcoming and easygoing without the formality found in Keller’s other South Florida eatery, The Surf Club Restaurant. But don’t let the more casual feel fool you; the quality of the food doesn’t dip for a second. From the first bite to the last sip of espresso after dessert, everything served is topnotch, beautifully presented and bursting with flavor.

Bouchon Coral Gables is located at 2101 Galiano St., Coral Gables. For more information, visit thomaskeller.com/coral-gables-florida/bouchon-bistro or call 305-990-1360.