Cooking Outside Of The Box

There’s a buzz in the air the minute you walk into this compact and hard-to-find restaurant.

It could be the recent announcement that Zitz Sum, opened just a little bit over a year, was selected as a nominee for “Best New Restaurant” of the esteemed James Beard Foundation and a Bib Gourmand award from Michelin Guide, or simply diners’ excitement for landing a table at the eatery that has gained a cult following quietly, quickly and with utmost vehemence. And for good reason, too.

Located inside the Citibank building in Coral Gables’ Alhambra Circle, there’s no sign beyond a humble sandwich board deep in the courtyard that simply reads “Zitz Sum.” You don’t stumble upon this spot, you seek it out. Chef Pablo Zitzmann is the master behind the magic. The Colombian chef began testing his creative waters as a pop-up, instantly drawing in crowds, although foodies will remember Zitzmann from his widely popular restaurant, No Name Chinese, which closed in 2019.

Zitzmann’s culinary prowess was nurtured with stints at highly regarded South Florida establishments like Nobu, Matador Room and Market at Edition. Culinary curiosity runs in his veins, something that took him across the globe to Hawaii, Hong Kong and Japan to learn more about Asian cuisine, all of which ties in nicely with his latest venture which defines itself on its website as “Ingredient focused, Japanese & Chinese inspired with a Miami perspective.”

The menu is divided into four sections: Izakaya (equivalent to appetizers), Dumplings, Konro Grill (used in Japan) and Dessert and is presented tapas-style, allowing diners to share and encouraging them to explore more.

Dishes change regularly and there are limited quantities of each (the night I went, they were down to one dessert), so a good plan of action may be to arrive early to ensure you are able to enjoy it all.

Some selections are so popular that they have been crowned with a permanent spot on the menu. Take, for example, the Bing Bread, a Chinese flatbread similar to Indian paratha. It comes piping hot and served alongside miso butter. If it weren’t for all the other tantalizing dishes beckoning, I would have happily made this my dinner. The Wagyu Steak Tartare is an emblematic example of Zitzmann’s fearlessness in successfully merging technique, cultures and flavors. Layers of warm rice, wagyu beef, Japanese egg salad topped with tobiko (flying fish roe) arrive accompanied by fried nori chips to use for scooping. Diners can opt to enjoy each flavor separately or, as my guest and I did, mix it all together for a truly extraordinary melting pot experience. (Pro tip: ask for more nori chips, they are addictive and go quickly).  The Wonton in Brodo, a dish inspired by the beloved tortellini en brodo, a northern Italian dumpling soup, tastes like a dish created by a Japanese-Italian grandma. Delicate chicken dumplings float among a rich soy dashi (Japanese broth), making for a dish you’ll certainly crave on rainy days.

Har Gow (the traditional Cantonese shrimp dumpling used to gauge a dim sum chef’s skill) makes a daily appearance. Zitmann’s passes with flying colors, providing a sweet, briny combination of flavors when topped with a Calabrian chili vinaigrette and topped with Thai basil.

My guest and I chose an assortment to sample from the grill section, beginning with the Fairytale Eggplant (who can resist the name?), followed by Shrimp Curry Yakisoba and Niman Ranch Pork chop. The eggplant dish lives up to its title: Roasted eggplant nestled over labneh arrives topped with onions and fried peanuts. The dish is drizzled with a Guaniciale XO sauce (made from cured pork cheek) that adds a smoky element tying in the buttery and tart components of the dish. Those seeking some heat will enjoy the Curry Yakisoba. It comes in a curry sauce laced with Calabrian chili accented by lime, Thai basil and breadcrumbs. The pork dish is straightforward and well executed, served with Korean-style bean sprout salad and chili jam. There’s always a meat and fish option. The night I visited, Mishima Wagyu Churrasco and Roasted Yellowtail Snapper made an appearance and based on the joyful murmurs emanating from the next table, are equally smart choices.

Along the way there are multiple cocktails and unique wine and sake selections to enhance the overall experience. Try the Zitz Spritz, a refreshing blend of Lychee Soju, Thai basil, vermouth and prosecco or the ‘Bout Thyme (jasmine tea, thyme, Junmai and pinot noir).

Which leads us to dessert, the realm of Natalia Restrepo, Zitzmann’s wife and business partner. My menu teased two choices, both sounding so delicious I had already resolved ordering both at the start of the meal so was disappointed to learn that one — the Hawaiian Mochi Cake with Giandujia chocolate and toasted coconut — had already sold out. The Hong Kong Style French Toast (the remaining option) was a light, fluffy version of the beloved breakfast dish made with Shokupan (Japanese milk bread), topped with peanut crumble and accompanied by a generous scoop of milked iced tea gelato.

The nod from James Beard Association and Michelin Guide is meaningful in that it places Zitz Sum on a well-earned culinary spotlight for the rest of the nation to see. But it is certainly not what drives Zitzmann and Restrepo in providing a dining experience glazed with love, talent and dedication. That, they attribute to South Floridians who have flocked and will continue to flock to their restaurant, knowing that, while each visit will bring a surprise dish or two, the results are always packed with flavor.

Zitz Sum is located at 396 Alhambra Cir., Ste. 155, Coral Gables. For more information, call 786-409-6920 or visit zitzsum.com.