Crème De La Crème

As if you needed further proof that Miami has become a culinary mecca, not one but two restaurants by the most Michelin-starred chef in history – the late Joël Robuchon – are now part of the city dining scene, having opened last summer.

Located in the same Design District building, Le Jardinier, a vegetable-driven concept by Robuchon protégé Alain Verzeroli, is downstairs. Ascending a spiral staircase from that bright, modern space into the sexy, dimly lit upstairs venue, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, sets the scene for an unforgettable dining experience full of drama.

With locations across the globe, L’Atelier was named in reference to a craftsman’s workshop. And the craft of fine cookery is on full display for patrons at the signature dining counter, facing the open kitchen. With just 34 seats, the counter is the only way to get the true L’Atelier experience, although there is some table seating.

From the moment we were greeted with a welcome cocktail, service was personal, detail-oriented and intuitive. We nibbled house-made breads and perused the modern French menu, offering a la carte options as well as seasonal and vegetarian tasting menus. We figured go big or go home and opted for the 10-course Menu Evolution with wine pairing. 

A knowledgeable sommelier walked us through each selection as a parade of impeccably presented dishes appeared before us, each more impressive than the last. A particular favorite was Le Cabillaud, a succulent piece of Icelandic cod in a wondrous Champagne sauce, topped with baby leek and caviar, the saltiness of which added a stirring counterpoint. For my main meat dish, I chose the Wagyu beef (Le Boeuf) over the venison, but the star of that course was the world-famous pommes purée – the silkiest, most decadent whipped potatoes you’ll ever taste in your life.

The final course was so stunning I could barely bring myself to eat it: La Foret Noire, a Black Forest cake with chocolate cream and kirsch Chantilly in the guise of a mushroom, surrounded by edible “dirt” and “moss.” Just wow.

At last, our gourmet journey came to an end. As I sat back, thoroughly stuffed and on culinary cloud nine, I spotted something: a small portrait of Chef Robuchon, hung on the kitchen wall. A reminder that his legacy – and exacting standards of excellence – continually drive the stellar team at L’Atelier Miami. O

L’Atelier Miami is located at 151 N.E. 41st St., Ste. 235. For more information, call 305-402-9070 or visit latelier-miami.com.