Fabulously French

It’s a well-known fact — made even more poignant at the height of the pandemic — that the restaurant industry is a fickle one with an unflattering success rate.

Factor in the South Florida market, obsessed with fads and trends that change faster that one can ask, “What are today’s specials?” to better understand the effort needed for a Miami eatery to find success. LPM Restaurant & Bar, the convivial Mediterranean French restaurant on Brickell Avenue, has solidified its place as a Miami success story. Drawing patrons since opening in 2017, the eatery (the only U.S. location out of six cities that include London, Dubai and Hong Kong) is one place bustling with food lovers enjoying the elegant, but approachable feel coupled with extraordinary cuisine.

The first thing diners will notice upon entering the bright space is the plump whole tomatoes and lemons decorating each table. Servers encourage diners to make a salad with these, adding a hearty drizzle of fruity olive oil that serves as the table’s centerpiece. It’s a simple detail emphasizing the restaurant’s commitment to real, pure flavors with the important message that guests feel at home while here. It’s also an ideal way to stay distracted while waiting for the cocktails to arrive.

I strongly encourage you sample the restaurant’s signature drink: The Tomatini, self-anointed as “The Essence of LPM in a Martini Glass.” On the evening I visited, my waiter warily described it as a tomato-based drink, knowing this would render images of a heavy, spicy, Bloody Mary — attributes that are completely the opposite of the incredibly light, slightly salty, slightly sweet vodka-based cocktail. He noted my hesitation (“I usually have Bloody Mary’s for brunch, not dinner” I began saying) and he insisted I order it and sample for myself. I am so glad I did. The Tomatini, crowned with freshly-ground pepper delivered from a colorful pepper grinder the size of a small child, is so unique and enchanting you’ll be craving another one days after you’ve left — an apt summary of the experience at LPM Restaurant & Bar as a whole.

Under the helm of Chef Brian Brumec, dishes celebrate fresh flavors in an expert way. Starters include Salade D’Endives Au Gorgonzola (Endives with Gorgonzola and Caramelized Walnuts), Escargots De Bourgogne (Snails with Garlic Butter and Parsley) and Poulpe Finement Tranché, thinly sliced octopus with lemon and green chili dressing. The Burrata with cherry tomatoes and basil starter (Burrata Et Tomates) featured a cheese so fresh, creamy and delightful, I had to inquire where it came from, with the hopes of buying some to take home (not a possibility, so I’ll just have to return for more!).

Main course choices are plentiful, so make sure to pace your intake of the warm, crusty baguette readily served throughout the night. Pasta lovers will be overjoyed with dishes like Arrabbiata, homemade rigatoni with tomato and chili and Pappardelle Fraîches, Râgout De Veau — homemade pappardelle with veal ragu featuring pasta made in house. Côtelettes D’Agneau “Vivienne,” marinated lamb cutlets with olive, eggplant caviar and pine nuts was a dish I could not turn down. The meat, which arrived medium-rare, or as Julia Child would instruct, “au jus,” was expertly prepared. My praise with each bite meant I had to reluctantly share some with my guest so he could see what the fuss was all about. LPM Restaurant & Bar excels with pescatarian options like Poisson En Croûte De Sel De Guérande, a salt-baked fillet of Red fish with artichokes and tomatoes bursting with flavor. Traditionalists will favor the Entrecôte Grillée, a 14-ounce grilled rib eye steak or Canard à l’Orange, duck confit with orange and escarole.

While a meal of this caliber will easily leave you satisfied at this point, I insist you order dessert. Between the Pain Perdu Façon “Cyrus,” (French toast with spiced ice cream), Mousse Au Chocolat Chaude et Glace à L’Orge (warm chocolate mousse with malt ice cream) and Gâteau au Fromage Frais —  vanilla cheesecake with berry compote — every sweet tooth will be happy to have stayed.

LPM Restaurant & Bar is located in 1300 Brickell Bay Dr., Miami. For more information, call 305-403-9133 or visit lpmrestaurants.com/miami.