Modern Mexican Magic

“Gitano” is the Spanish word for gypsy, which the Merriam-Webster dictionary defines as “a person who wanders or roams from place to place.” Yet step into this embracing Miami Beach restaurant shrouded in lush, tropical plants and wandering will be the last thing on your mind.

Nestled inside trendy Casa Faena, banquettes with plush pillows and French bistro rattan chairs invite diners to relax and enjoy what’s to come. The Modern Mexican restaurant is helmed by Executive Chef Antonio Maldonado, a native of Puebla, a city rich in culinary history and beautiful pottery. Maldonado’s interpretations of iconic dishes from his native land arrive to lucky guests bearing a thoughtful and elevated touch.

But before we get into that, let’s start with drinks. Having grown up in South America, I’m a sucker for anything with passion fruit, and having lived in Mexico, I cannot turn down spicy food or mezcal. Which is why the Kisses In The Car cocktail had my name written all over it. Made with Vida mezcal, rum, passion fruit, orange juice, lemon and habanero pepper, it hit all the right notes of tropical and spice. Vodka fans will enjoy the Gypsy Disco 75 (Absolut Elyx vodka, St. Germain, lime juice, raspberries and sparkling rosé) while gin aficionados will favor The Queen, made with Monkey 47 gin, lavender-infused honey, lemon, orange juice and soda. If wine is more your thing, there is a healthy selection that includes some lesser-known Mexican bottles worth learning about.

Here’s the thing: this is a spot where you can’t go wrong. Dishes are bright and flavorful with a focus on fresh herbs and spices. And while I went with one guest, I highly recommend going with a large group so you can sample a lot.

We began with the guacamole appetizer. Heirloom baby carrot, jicama and zucchini sticks along with dramatic triangles of totopos (authentic tortilla chips) arrive standing above a base of avocado like a crudité Stonehenge. At the behest of our server, we ordered the Green Bowl as well. Listed as “broccoli, cauliflower, shishito peppers with almond, cotija and epazote basil dressing,” I confess it was not a dish that caught my eye. Upon first bite, however, it was quickly devoured and earmarked as a dish I’d long for after the meal was done.

The lobster tostada is not to be missed: finely chopped fresh poached lobster mixed with avocado, peas, radish and morita pepper arrive beautifully balanced atop an artisanal, crispy tostada. If it were up to me, this alone could be lunch every day. For those craving heartier starters, the Chorizo Con Queso is about as traditional Mexican as it gets. Melted Oaxaca cheese with smokey chorizos and habanero peppers arrive with warm tortillas to scoop and eat. Wagyu Albondigas (bison meatballs) with Queso Panela and Chipotle are a delight as is the Huitlacoche Truffle Tlayuda — a crunchy, cheesy blend of huitlacoche (the famed Mexican corn smut), mole negro, epazote and Chihuahua cheese.

Main dishes cater to all flavor profiles. For those skipping protein, the Lemongrass Cauliflower Al Pipian is ideal. The plating alone is stunning: half a head of baked cauliflower marinated with pipian, which is made with chile poblano translating into a vivid green sauce. It rests atop a brick-colored goat cheese mole with an adobo base and is topped with fresh herbs and pumpkin seeds. Carne Asada is a no-nonsense meat lover’s dish served with Chile de Arbol, Cambray onions and galangal root. Perhaps the highlight of our night was the Branzino in Banana Leaf. It arrived moist and bursting with flavor in a sauce made out of tomatillo, serrano peppers and spinach with the surprising addition of kiwi, whose acidic notes worked beautifully with the fish. We were also smitten by the Pollo En Recado Rojo — crispy fried chicken served with Spinach Pepita Lime Butter that was both crunchy and moist and could easily be considered one of the city’s best.

While there are several expected dessert items like churros and horchata cake, we opted for the Paleta de Guava & Banana — an ideal nod to both South Florida and Mexico. It arrived as frozen panacotta with Galletas Marias and passionfruit and provided the successful marriage of flavor and texture.

One would be more than complete heading home after such a culinary experience at Gitano, but once again, we listened to our server and took the elevator to the rooftop bar, where, tempted by the spectacular views, jovial music and Miami’s warm breeze, we indulged in a nightcap.

Gitano is located at 3500 Collins Ave., Miami Beach. For more information, call  786-655-5600 or visit gitano.com.