Namaste Miami

I have a confession to make. Sometimes — and only in a handful of circumstances — I embrace a cliché because, by golly, it works so well. So, when I say that Rishtedar, the new Indian restaurant in Miami, transported me to another world, it’s because that’s truly the best way to put it.

For starters, I was greeted by an affable hostess whispering a soothing “namaste,” who then bestowed me with a stick-on bindi (the decorative dot traditionally worn by Hindu women), a thoughtful detail offered to the female patrons. It’s a tiny precursor to the kind and quiet hospitality woven throughout the meal, much like the washbowl and pitcher the server arrives with at the end so diners can clean their hands with a fragrant blend of lemon, cardamom and rose water.

Rishtedar’s decor is enough to make one take pause. Vibrant colors and textures throughout the restaurant set the stage for a unique experience. Mirrors and arches emulate Indian architecture. Look up and you’ll see lamps with draped cloths in deep hues inspired by saris, the traditional garment for women in India.

The lengthy menu is divided into sections of starters and shared plates, followed by vegetarian, chicken, fish and seafood, lamb and tandoor — plus sides like naan and rice. It’s a challenge not to over-order, just remember, whatever you can’t finish makes for great leftovers the next day.

My guest and I feasted on appetizers like Samosas (triangular-shaped cumin pastry stuffed with potatoes, peas and Indian spices), Jheenga Til Tikka (Sesame-breaded shrimp and twelve spices) and Murgh Tikka, a spicy chicken cooked in a tandoor oven with tikka sauce served tableside on a miniature grill. Our server insisted we also sample the Johar E Motia starter and I am happy we did. The dish of mushrooms in a smooth white sauce with cashew nuts and a subtle touch of cardamom was a delight. The food was beautifully plated and packed with flavor. A word of caution, though: if you are not a fan of spicy food, be sure to request it without heat. Dishes can be ordered with a spicy level of 1-5. We ordered ours at 2 and, as proud spicy eaters, were surprised at how hot it came.

The dim lighting and comfortable seating (grab a plush banquette donned with embroidered throw pillows you’ll want to take home) beg for a leisurely meal, allowing diners to pace themselves and make room for what’s to come. Popular main courses include vegetarian Achari Bengan (marinated eggplant in Achari sauce, which the menu calls an “aphrodisiac mix sauce with a spicy sour taste”) and Aloo Matar Aur Gobhi — potatoes with peas and cauliflower in a traditional Indian seasoned masala with onion and tomato sauce. For those seeking protein, consider Goa Jheenga Curry, shrimp with curry, onion, garlic, coconut sauce and spices; Butter Chicken, an Indian staple featuring chicken in tomato cream cooked in butter and masala and Mathan Roghan Josh, lamb curry that originated in Kashmir.

Don’t miss the Lobster Masala, a tender, whole tail served atop a Southern Indian coconut-based curry and be sure to order Lasun Naan (fluffy, freshly baked Indian bread with garlic), which serves as a great way to scoop up the extra sauce.

And of course, the incomparable basmati rice is a must: we ordered Kashmiri Pulao, which blends in fruits and spices.

By now you’ll most likely find yourself in the same conundrum I was in: too full to order dessert, yet so smitten by the cuisine that you forge ahead and order sweets. To simplify the decision-making, Rishtedar is kind enough to offer a Dessert Platter celebrating traditional favorites like Kulfi (homemade pistachio and almond ice cream) and Gulab Jamu, sweet milk starch balls marinated in rose water with saffron.

You understand now why I began with a cliché. And while said phrase — to be transported to another world — has been diluted by its casual overuse, during my visit to Rishtedar, it encapsulated perfectly a phenomenal dining experience I’ll gladly repeat.

Rishtedar is located at 232 NW 24th St, Miami. For more information, call 305-799-0724 or visit rishtedar.com.