The Flavor Of Bliss

Chef Jeremy Ford’s Latest Restaurant Is Both Comforting And Creative

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Allow me to take you back to an uncomplicated and pure moment of happiness. Maybe it’s a cherry red bike you rode around the neighborhood as a kid or the moment you said your vows with friends and family looking on. Now take that feeling of utter joy and meld it with an evening coupled by extraordinary dining and impeccable service courtesy of a South Florida chef whose inventive dishes put diners under a spell.

I’m talking about Chef Jeremy Ford, who — much to the glee of his fans — opened his third eatery (together with Grove Bay Hospitality Group) Beauty & The Butcher in the Miami neighborhood of Coral Gables.

For those who don’t know Ford, you’re in luck: you now have this eatery plus two other stellar spots (Stubborn Seed in Miami Beach and The Butcher’s Club in Palm Beach Gardens) to explore. It’s fair to say that Beauty & The Butcher, however, is the venue closest to Ford’s heart and home.

For starters, its name is inspired by his oldest daughter, Madelynn, whom he has crowned the “beauty” (you guessed it, Ford is the “butcher” in this scenario). The menu, a combination of elevated American cuisine tossed with unbottled genius, leans favorably toward supporting local purveyors. Dishes are meant to be shared and are divided into four sections on the menu: Table Snacks, Light And Bright, Golden & Crispy and Mains.

Before delving into what will certainly be a palate pleasing experience, I suggest ordering a cocktail to sip on while taking in the handsome space. Little Piggy, featuring Hickory Smoked Pork Belly Washed-Maker’s Mark Bourbon, Redemption Rye Whiskey with fig nectar, Tawny Port and Blackstrap Bitters is a crash course into the harmonious creativity that awaits. For a lighter, more fragrant flair, The Belle Rose hits the right notes with its blend of gin, Italicus (an Italian aperitif flavored with citrus, rose and aromatic herbs), malbec-hibiscus reduction, rose water air and lemon.

Let’s talk about the space, which is as thoughtful as the food. Seating 160, it includes an ample bar (seating 30) inviting the well-deserved opportunity for a delicious solo dining experience. Plush, comfortable booths boasting forest green leather seating grace the perimeter of the restaurant while brass-toned chandeliers provide soft lighting that creates both a sophisticated and homey feel.

But back to the food.

Begin with memorable snacks like House Made Cured Duck Prosciutto (duck breast smoked in-house gently strewn over warm marinated olives and pickled local tomato). Jalapeño Fritters topped with Mangalica Ham resting on a Truffle Emulsion tasted like a compact, creamy dream (to my surprise, they weren’t spicy) and the Organic Chicken Liver Mousse with Berbere Spice and Persimmon Jam (along with strips of crusty bread) was creamy and light and of a symphonic caliber when paired with the jam.

Items on the “Light And Bright” section of the menu will all make you happy. In fact, two of my favorite dishes are from here: the Dry Aged Japanese Yellow Crudo (the fish is proudly displayed in the dry aging fridge at the bar) arrives as bold, thick chunks (none of that paper thin slicing often found elsewhere) and is topped with winter citrus, dried olive and rose salt. Local Lettuce — a towering layer of greens from South Florida farms blended with walnuts, house made yogurt, soft herbs and turmeric vinaigrette is something I could eat every day for lunch. Lastly, the Foie Gras & Winter Truffle Tart (with green apple gelee and pine nuts) is that moment of uncomplicated and pure happiness in a bite. The slightly salty crust and luxuriously creamy foie gras and truffle filling is a prime example of the culinary prowess that has garnered this “Top Chef” champion so many well-deserved accolades.

Golden & Crispy menu items beckon with favorites like Truffled Papas Bravas Soppressata (Sofrito, Crunch Garlic and Parmesan), Charred Octopus Anticucho (Fennel Sauerkraut, Aji Amarillo) and Pork Belly Confit crowned with a mountain of pickled cucumber and served with a spiced broth, mint and fennel and a tangy salsa verde.

One could stop at that, but Mains await. Florida Genuine Red Snapper with Colombian chorizo, white bean cassoulet, shaved celery is nourishing and light. Flexing the butcher side of things, the Slow Smoked Beef Rib (served with winter pickled vegetable) is beyond melt-off-the-bone goodness and is paired with herb crepes, a shiso leaf and butter lettuce that is used as a lettuce wrap.

It’s befitting to seal the night of extraordinary childlike wonder with Ford’s rendition of a sundae — the quintessential kid dessert.  Butcher’s Sundae takes it up a few notches with Salted Caramel Ice Cream, Banana Sorbet, Brownie, Passionfruit and Peanuts.

It’s impossible not to end the evening in a state of bliss. Between the attentive staff, stately space and the magic presence of one of South Florida’s most talented chefs, this is a night to remember, and continue dreaming of, until returning again.

Beauty & The Butcher is located at 6915 Red Road, Coral Gables. For more information, call 305.376.7613 or visit beautyandthebutchermiami.com.

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