Chef Christian Chirino
Photo By Ricardo Mejia
Luca Delogu
Photo By Ricardo Mejia
Walk into the serene, casually elegant Tur Kitchen in Coral Gables and you might have well entered another country. Or two. Or three.
The eatery identifies as Mediterranean and does not miss a beat in the authentic and wide-ranging representation of the expansive region stretching from North Africa, Southern Europe and the Middle East. Showcasing a myriad of extraordinary flavors with exceptional artistry, impeccable service and an unrelenting commitment to sustainability, Tur Kitchen relies heartily on local produce from small South Florida farms.
Diners may be surprised to learn that a young, Chilean chef serves as the conductor of this fine-tuned culinary orchestra, yet one conversation with Chef Christian Chirino quickly dispels any suggestion that he may not be up to the task. Quite the contrary, Chirino’s extensive, diverse training and experience provide the skillset, vision and passion that has garnered Tur Kitchen the recognition and loyal fan base it deserves.
“I started working in France a long time ago at Le Chateaubriand, one of the top 9th places in the world, as a sous chef — as well as the Hôtel de Crillon in Paris,” the 35-year-old says. “My schooling was really French old school — so that when I got into this project [i.e., the job at Tur Kitchen] it was the perfect match because when I was working in Paris, I was doing a lot of the stage [unpaid internship], as they call it and I traveled to many countries around the Mediterranean like Tunisia and Morroco [as part of the training].”
Chirino is referring to two of Paris’ most acclaimed culinary establishments, explaining that at age 17, after studying culinary arts in his hometown of Antofagasta in northern Chile, he decided he needed to go to France to learn from the best.
“I started writing letters to find a job in Paris as an intern. It’s funny because now you can find it on social media websites everywhere. At that time, it was writing letters. I didn’t know anybody in France, I didn’t know how to speak French,” he recalls.
Without a concrete offer and with his family banking he would soon return, Chirino headed for the City of Lights where he secured a spot as a dishwasher at Le Chateaubriand working from 8 a.m. to midnight every day.
“I didn’t get paid, so I had two more jobs — that was my first six months of my career. I was working 20 hours per day, six days a week!”
Photo By Alberto A Panick
Chirino admits the adjustment was difficult at first, but explains that reminding himself that he came, not to make money, but to learn from the best, served as his driving force.
And learn from the best he did. While at Le Chateubriand, he interned at other established restaurants, serving under celebrated chefs like the late Chef Joël Robuchon in St. Germain and Chef Andoni Luis Aduriz from Mugaritz in northern Spain.
Upon finishing the internship, Le Chauteubriand hired him as sous chef, a mere 10-hour-a-day position that inspired him to look for another job, this time at The Hôtel de Crillon, where he worked as executive sous chef.
STEAK TENDERLOIN
He spent four years in Paris before returning to Chile where he’d tackle the world of large-scale dining working as the Executive Chef for Compass Group Brand. He also completed a master’s degree in Projects Management as well as an MBA in Food & Beverage Companies from the Universita Bocconi in Milan, Italy.
“I was always connected with the Mediterranean,” Chirino notes.
Seeking reprieve from the relentless chef lifestyle (his wife is also a chef), the couple relocated to South Florida, allured by an inviting lifestyle and a welcome opportunity to slow down a bit.
“We moved to Miami saying, ‘I don’t want to work for a couple of months, I want to sleep in my house every night.’ Because I was taking a plane every day, for six days in a row [at the job in Chile].
Duck Magret
“And my days off,” he added, “I want to feel like I’m on vacation — and that’s Miami!”
The fantasy of a leisurely lifestyle lasted all of two weeks when he accepted an offer to work for Three, the restaurant once owned by Chef Norman Van Aken. From there, he moved to Tur Kitchen in October 2020, just five months after it opened.
“I love it. I have the support of the owners, I have a great partner, that is Luca Delogu as General Manager. They trust in the concept that I am moving with this, that is, not only the Mediterranean but sustainable. That is the future for every restaurant,” he says.
Chirino is talking about his close ties with local fishermen, cattle ranchers and farms like Harpke Family Farm and Gratitude.
Farro
“Every week I’m discovering different families, different stories and amazing products. This makes my life easier as a chef. I don’t need to cook too much because I have great, great products,” Chirino says.
Dishes like Seasonal Roots, a colorful collection of Farm To Table Roots, Clementine and Labne emphasize the bright, fresh flavors to make his point. Tapas-style plates meant to be shared include Pides (Turkish-filled bread that arrives piping hot) and Roasted Squid, a memorable combination of crispy squid, Medjool Dates, Chorizo, Chili, Cilantro, Sumac and Grapefruit. Main dishes include the Boyd Farm Coulette, a delectable steak dish featuring Florida Grown Grass Fed Picanha, Broccolini and Aged Garlic and the vegetarian Farro with Emmer Wheat Berries, Gratitude Garden Farm Mushrooms and Chili. There are also two tasting menus (8-course and 13-course) which Chirino highly recommends.
Seasonal Roots
“It’s a lot of attention to details,” he says, noting the forest green palate cleanser served — a unique sorbet made with celery, basil, lime and local flowers.
It’s also a restaurant true to its origin.
“It was one of the things that surprised me about Miami because I can find a Spanish restaurant — a beautiful place with Spanish décor, but it has ceviche so, it is a little bit weird. I’m one hundred percent Mediterranean. Not because we have papaya [in Florida] are we going to push papaya on the menu.”
Chirino is excited to be in Miami, observing how quickly the city has become a mecca for diners and chefs in the four years since his arrival.
“We [chef friends] are always talking about the same thing: it’s incredible how it’s getting better and better every day. We have so much talent in the city. I never imagined that Miami has farms! You’ll always see Miami as beach, hotels, parties and boats, but you never imagine farms! That, I think, is why Miami is soon going to be one of the biggest cities in terms of restaurants.”
Photo By Ricardo Mejia
Roasted Squid
Serves 1-2
“This dish has everything we are looking for in a recipe in terms of flavor and texture: it’s bitter, it’s citrus, it’s spicy, it has a lot of fat and salt and you have the freshness of flowers, the chiles and the crunch from the squid.”
Ingredients:
8 oz. calamari tubes and tentacles
1 oz. Spanish chorizo
Jalapeño, 3 thin slices
Red Chili, 3 thin slices
2 Medjool dates
15 cilantro leaves
Zest of ½ a lemon
1 oz. grapefruit segments
Edible flowers (for decoration)
Pinch of sumac
Process:
• Chop chorizo and dates into small dice.
• Slice the calamari into rings and add the tentacles.
• Preheat a saucepan for 3 minutes at high heat.
• Add a touch of extra virgin olive oil and cook the calamari rings.
• Once the calamari is golden add Spanish chorizo and mix for one more minute to cook the chorizo and mix the calamari with the fat.
• Add to the plate: jalapeños, chilis, sumac, lemon zest, grapefruit segments and Medjool dates.
• Finish with cilantro and edible flowers.