Photos By Josh Villatoro
Chef Ambrely Ouimette grew up in a rural farm in upstate New York, miles away from a grocery store, let alone a restaurant. That her professional trajectory would lead her to become one of the top omakase (the Japanese tradition of a chef-driven sushi tasting menu) chefs — when it is rare to find women behind the sushi counter at all — may seem surprising. But, reflecting on where she is today, Ouimette knows the significant role her family and humble upbringing had on helping her get to where she is today.
Her Italian and Ukrainian roots meant Sundays were defined by family feasts celebrated at the dinner table. Raised by a single mother, the responsibility of preparing meals often fell on her.
“I took on cooking for us as a family. I would watch cooking shows after school, and there was a synergy between the joy and necessity of feeding people and creating meals for loved ones. It just resonated,” she says.
Her grandmother was a big influence in the kitchen, teaching Ouimette how to handle a knife at a young age. And while she describes her grandfather as “very traditional,” she emphasizes the positive influence his belief in her had on her growing up.
“They experienced a lot of adversity growing up. They never let me think I could achieve anything without putting hard work into it,” she says.
Texas Wagyu
By the time she was in second grade, her decision to become a chef was made. Her love for preparing sushi came later, quite by accident.
“I was working as a minimum wage line cook at a super busy restaurant in north shore Massachusetts and the open kitchen overlooked the sushi bar of the place. It was like being struck by lightning. When you know, you know. The dance of it all, the organization and meditation under pressure that the chefs appeared to have. It was like watching a ballet from the back of a pirate ship. I needed to be a part of it. I did anything I could throughout my career to get to that spot. The calm within the storm. It happened fast and I never looked back.”
Chef Norio Ishii, from the restaurant Opus in Salem, Mass. took a chance on the, then novice sushi chef, taking her under his wing as an apprentice. Not only did she learn the fundamentals of working in a sushi kitchen, but she built the confidence to push her artistic boundaries in a culinary art very much defined by each chef’s individuality.
“[Omakase] is all about the excitement behind the experience, the hidden nostalgia and passion behind the bites and service. It’s packing a lot of playfulness in almost theatre-like dining. I think this equally excites diners and chefs. You can really dive deep into the mind of the chef putting on the show with their team,” Ouimette explains.
Tartare
Today, she is executive chef of Sushi l Bar, which has a location in Austin, Texas and additional outposts coming to Dallas and Chicago. The latest outpost opened in Miami Beach this past September. Diners are treated to a 17-course experience that takes a detour from more traditional omakases by pairing only the freshest fish (often flown in from Japan) with unique ingredients like handcrafted ferments, salts, koshōs (chili paste) and unusual condiments. Take the Shima Aji (white trevally jack)) for example, a symphonic blend of strawberry and gochujang sauce, Jacobson sea salt and perfectly toasted garlic chips; or Hiramasa (yellowtail amberjack fish), a one-of-a-kind sushi piece with jalapeño vinaigrette, guava and passion fruit, toasted coconut, leeks and fresh mint.
Each bite is prepared for 10 diners sitting at the intimate bar offering a full view of the chef’s every movement. Ouimette engages with her audience throughout the meal and shares the origin story of each sushi piece to come, explaining her inspiration, process and interpretation of the dish in live time.
“All these touches are my way of bringing my personal story and recalling back my upbringing whether in Hudson Valley, Maine or travels in Europe,” she says.
Blue Fin
Dinner at Sushi l Bar is a complete sensory experience, from the dim lighting, music played (anything from fun, upbeat ‘90s hip-hop to chill lounge music) and even the way each bite is savored: there are no chopsticks (fingers only) and guests are encouraged to flip the nigiri — or sushi piece — on its side to best absorb each flavor.
The takeaway she hopes each diner experiencing her signature omakase has is simple: “Comfort, excitement, continued interest, layers of flavors, wholesomeness, curiosity, informed, entertained, inspiration. I hope guests at Sushi | Bar leave the counter feeling inspired and have learned something!”
While her undeniable success as a female omakase chef in, what is clearly a male-dominated industry, has garnered a lot of buzz, Ouimette’s focus remains unfettered and grounded in what is most important: providing the best experience for her patrons.
“Ultimately, I want to be known as a talented chef, not as a talented female chef. The kitchen has sometimes felt like a boy’s club, but I’ve always resolved to see this as a hurdle I can overcome. I find that taking my emotion or energy from what I’m feeling and putting it into my work helps me mentally, spiritually, emotionally.”
Shima Aji
Since the fermentations that Ouimette makes require extensive prep time, she has adapted this popular sushi piece with a simpler, quicker fermentation that can be used when preparing Shima Aji. Please note that when assembling each sushi piece, each fish slice should weigh 0.4 ounces and should be about 2 inches long and rice per serving should be 1.4 ounces. Since Shima Aji is a hard fish to come by in South Florida seafood markets, Ouimette suggests using your favorite white fish. While Chef keeps her sushi rice a guarded secret, we have provided a recipe below.
For the fresno fermentation:
Makes 1½ cups
1 cup fresno peppers
1 oz. yuzu juice
1⁄8 cup garlic
1 tablespoon sugar
½ cup honey
zest of 3 yuzu or limes
• Over an open flame, char peppers, turning regularly, until skin in slightly blackened and inside is soft. Peel and devein.
• Place all ingredients in a mason jar or cryovac bag and allow to ferment in a dry, dim spot for 1-2 weeks.
• Blend until it becomes a paste.
For the garlic chips:
6 peeled garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1½ quarts sugar
2½ quarts water
¼ cup olive oil
• Place sliced garlic in a pot of boiling water for 10 seconds, strain and rinse with cold water to blanch.
• Combine sugar and water in a pot and bring to a boil. Simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat.
• Add garlic to sugar/water mixture and steep for 5 minutes.
• Dry on paper towel.
• In a skillet, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add garlic chips and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook until fragrant (about 15 seconds) then turn pieces using a heatproof spatula and continue to cook until slices are golden brown (1-2 minutes*).
• Strain and place chips on a paper towel lined plate.
• Store in a small, airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a month.
*Note: These will brown up very quickly so keep a close eye!
For the sushi rice
(courtesy of allrecipes.com):
Makes 5 cups
2 cups sushi rice
3 cups water
½ cup rice vinegar
¼ cup white sugar
1 teaspoon salt
• Rinse the rice in a strainer under cold water until the water runs clear.
• Combine rice and water in a saucepan over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce to low, cover and cook until rice is tender and all the water has been absorbed, about 20 minutes. Remove from stove and set aside until cool enough to handle.
• Meanwhile, combine rice vinegar, oil, sugar and salt in a small saucepan over medium heat.
• Cook until the sugar has dissolved. Allow to cool, then stir into the cooked rice. While the mixture will appear very wet at first, keep stirring and the rice will dry as it cools.
To assemble piece:
Grab 1 to 2 tablespoons of rice and roll it into a small nugget in your hand. Place fish on top. Add a dollop of Fresno Fermentation and top with garlic chips.