A Playful Take On Tradition

New Arrival In South Florida Changes The Game On Chinese Fare

by

Another New York favorite has landed in South Florida’s bustling culinary scene. RedFarm, the modern Chinese restaurant with a huge following in its native New York, opened earlier this year in Miami’s Coconut Grove. The concept cleverly blends a casual vibe with upscale dining while providing a welcoming ambiance — evident from the festive, flower-adorned exterior to the playful decorative duck decoys lining the entryway.

While there are currently two outlets in New York City and one in Austin, the Miami location has food and beverage interpretations tailored to South Florida. Start your meal with a cocktail. I favor the Old-Fashioned and found the Jasmine Pearl Old-Fashioned, made with Hibiki Harmony, Suntory Toki, ancient Chinese bitters, jasmine pearl tea, ginger and agave, both delicate and balanced. Those seeking a refreshing drink can opt for the Kumquat Sangria, a bright and fun option that pairs well with everything from the BBQ Duck Lettuce Wraps to the Dim Sum to the Seared Black Cod with Zucchini and Black Bean Basil Sauce.

Since its Manhattan debut 14 years ago, RedFarm has earned a reputation for inventive takes on Chinese classics. Among them are dishes like Ed’s Pastrami Egg Roll paired with Creamy Honey Mustard Sauce (imagine New-York-deli-meets-favorite-Chinese-staple).

Another clever twist is the Crispy Oxtail & Japanese Pumpkin Dumplings, served with Black Garlic Aioli. The rich oxtail stew is slow-braised in the oven overnight, rests in the fridge for a day, and is then deboned and mixed with Japanese pumpkin and spices, wrapped in a homemade pastry and deep-fried to create an out-of-this-world empanada-like experience.

Perhaps the most iconic dish at RedFarm is the “Pac-Man” Shrimp Dumplings, which gained legendary status in New York when Chef Joe Ny first created it. Four multicolored dumplings stuffed with shrimp donning black sesame seed eyes resemble the famous video game ghost characters being chased by a giant Pac-Man crafted from sweet potato tempura. While I found this dish less impressive in flavor and presentation, it scores high marks for its whimsical flair, and, for a Pac-Man fan like me, is too irresistible not to order.

Dumplings not to be missed are the Crunchy Vegetable Dumplings (four paper-thin pouches packed with crunchy veggies), the Shrimp & Truffle Shumai, Fresh Corn dumplings and the Pork Soup Dumplings, the latter of which is filled with a nourishing hot broth (and a detailed tutorial from the server on how to properly consume so as not to burn your tongue). Other hits in the extensive menu include the Pan-fried Lamb Dumplings and Shrimp & Snow Pea Leaf Dumplings. Fans of baked pork buns will want to sample them here: they arrive, tender and warm, filled with succulent meat.

The same dizzying selection applies to main dishes, with highlights like the Grilled Filet Mignon & Broccoli, Three Chili Chicken with Peanuts and Crispy Whole Flounder with Spicy Thai Basil Sauce. Malaysian Vegetable Curry hits the spot for vegetarians, and the Long Life Noodles With Morel Mushrooms offer a rich umami experience. Keep a lookout for the Daily Specials — the night I visited, the Clams In Black Bean Sauce showcased were plump and brimming with flavor.

Duck lovers will favor the Wide Rice Noodles with BBQ’D Duck, or can opt to go all in and order the Peking Duck. It arrives looking like an art exhibit, with a gorgeous whole duck (both crispy skin and tender meat), thin pancakes, along with the traditional accompaniments of scallion and cucumber. While hoisin (plum) sauce is standard for this dish, at RedFarm, diners are treated to hoisin plus two other choices: cranberry and peanut-tahini. Begin with a shot of aromatic duck broth, meant to clean the palate and set the stage for the duck-eating experience. At $105, it is by far the most expensive item on the menu, but given the quality and quantity (it can easily serve up to four), it is a price many find well worth paying.

RedFarm is located at 3131 Commodore Plaza, Coconut Grove. For more information, call 305-330-9700 or visit redfarmnyc.com.