Roasted Cauliflower
Photos Courtesy Of World Red Eye and KYU
Long before Miami evolved into a culinary mecca drawing in a steady stream of global talent, there were just a handful of top-notch restaurants driving the food scene. Among them was KYU, a modern, Asian-inspired eatery forced to close its doors at the end of 2022 due to storm damage.
The shutdown was met with the hope of a quick renovation, something eagerly awaited by foodies addicted to its tapas-style menu brimming with creativity. In reality, the saying “great things are worth waiting for” better mirrored what happened, as KYU reopened in March, 15 months after its closure. The 4,000-square space was packed on the Tuesday night I visited — a testament to how thrilled KYU fans are with the venue’s much-anticipated transformation.
Beef Short Rib
The once dark and cavernous space now boasts a refined, open feel while still retaining an intimate atmosphere through dim lighting. Wood paneling, stone accents and comfortable leather banquettes comprise the main dining area which is bookended by a spectacular bar on one side and an open kitchen on the other. There’s also a patio for those craving an al fresco experience.
Maintaining its small plate-sharing concept, KYU (pronounced “cue”) continues to push the envelope in food and beverage. This daring spirit is evident in unique cocktail offerings like Yaki Imo Tini, made with miso butter, washed hakutake shiro shochu, Japanese sweet potato, Okinawa black sugar, parmesan cheese and oat milk foam. Another standout drink is the Old Slabside, a blend of Angels Envy bourbon, sweet Japanese Bermutto, Amaro Sibona, Benedictine and black garlic.
KYU dinner spread
The menu is divided into enticing sections beginning with “Snacks” and then moving on to “Keeping It Light,” “Smoked & Wood Fired” and “For The Table.” There’s a separate dessert menu, so be sure to save room accordingly.
Beloved staples of the original KYU can be spotted in its new iteration. These include the Krunchy Kale with nam prik and togarashi, Smoked Bone Marrow with sisho chimichurri and miso toast from Zak the Baker as well as the restaurant’s legendary Roasted Cauliflower — a whole head perfectly charred and resting atop goat cheese and a shishito-herb vinaigrette. The Korean Fried Chicken with chili butter and braised spinach remains an all-time fan favorite, living up to its reputation as one of the top fried chicken dishes in town.
Mom’s Coconut Cake
Notable starters include the Corn Ribs with yuzu kosho and blackened onion, Smoked Hamachi Crudo with kumquats and white ponzu and Wagyu Tartare with furikake aioli. The latter is served with warm Parker House rolls so soft and delicious it’s hard not to gobble them all up as your dinner.
Every dish is enticing, making it a challenge to decide what to choose. Go with a group of friends (although I did notice during my visit that it’s a very popular date spot) so you’ll have more options to sample, meaning your table can also order the Pastrami Steamed Buns with Japanese miso mustard (pork or tofu options), Thai Rice Stone Pot (veggie, confit duck or king crab) and the Beef Short Rib with sesame crust and sweet soy.
While the emphasis is proudly on meat, dishes like the Grilled Octopus with heirloom tomatoes, summer squash and pickled ramps; Pan Seared Snapper with brown butter-white miso and pickled myoga and Fire Roasted Branzino with tamarind, basil and pickled chilies, are scrumptious, delicately balanced preparations that stand firmly on their own merits.
Despite the surge in top-tier restaurants in the area, KYU remains one of the city’s premier dining spots, living up to the hype it created in its heyday.
And remember my earlier advice on saving room for dessert? You’ll be glad you did when Mom’s Coconut Cake — a towering, layered celebration of coconut and vanilla flavors — arrives. Still, dessert is no time to become stingy: Go ahead and ask for the Dark Chocolate S’mores Cake as well. It elevates the iconic childhood summer treat to a decadently rich level.
KYU is located at 251 N.W. 25th St., Wynwood. For more information, visit kyurestaurants.com or call 786-577-0150.