One of the more recent New York transplants is here and it’s big, sexy and delicious. I’m talking about Toku, the South Florida outpost of Long Island brothers Gillis and George Poll.
Photos By Michael Stavaridis
The restaurateurs found success up north with steakhouse, seafood and Italian eateries before venturing into modern pan-Asian fare in 2007 — resulting in Toku at Americana Manhasset, Long Island’s upscale shopping destination. For the Miami location, they chose an expansive 14,000 square-foot space in Aventura Mall where the tone is set with dim lighting, modern decor and a massive stone Buddha watching over the main dining room.
There’s a handsome bar that beckons — go to it. With 53 seats, you should be able to find a spot. Dark wood accents, an illuminated bar surface and a large mural depicting a Chinese dragon add to the ultra-cool vibe.
Beyond the ample Japanese whisky and sake selections, alluring cocktails like Chili Passion Martini, Fig Martini, Mandarin Mojito and the Toku-Gria (an Asian twist on the classic wine cocktail featuring sake, plum wine, ginger and fruit) are worthy starters for the evening fun.
The dinner menu is expansive, but don’t worry — the seating is comfortable, the servers are well-versed and everyone seems happy to be there, so relax and take your time. While the food is predominantly Japanese and Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese dishes can also be found. My guest and I put our trust in our server’s recommendations, starting with the Tuna Pizza cold appetizer, Salmon Nashi (Asian pear, yuzu, truffle salt) as well as Lamb Spare Ribs — which came with pickled cucumber slices — and Edamame Dumplings served in a flavorful sweet wine broth.
And these were just our appetizers.
Pacing is key here, and you’ll find it a smart move to ask for takeout boxes so you can enjoy the leftovers later. I also made a mental note of other appetizers to try on my next visit: Octopus Carpaccio with Crispy Fried Leeks, Toku Tacos (tuna, lobster and Wagyu) and Teriyaki Burger Sliders were high on the list.
There are favorite soups like Hot & Sour, Toku Ramen (braised “cha-siu” pork and aromatic shantan broth) as well as a creative robata sampling — Duck and Lychee and Foie gras and Pineapple stand out — but we forged ahead with main dishes instead. For seafood, Miso Black Cod, bronze broiled with shishito pepper salad and bonito shavings is a classic that arrives moist and packed with flavor. So is the Jumbo Prawns Szechuan (ginger, garlic and chilies) and Crispy Whole Fish with sweet soy and honey.
Not-to-be-missed meat dishes include Braised Short Ribs with Pad Thai Noodles, cooked until it is so tender it breaks apart onto the noodles, rendering an exceptional comfort food dish.
Hardcore carnivores will perk up with the Wagyu 32 oz. Tomahawk, an Australian A9 cut of meat which comes with truffle and truffle ponzu butter and is as delicious as it sounds. Wok-prepared dishes boast their own category on the menu, and rightly so. Between the Honey Glazed Shrimp with Walnuts and the Sesame Chicken, you can’t go wrong.
Of course, there’s a vast array of sushi and sashimi options, from Sake (salmon) to Hotategai (scallop) to house rolls like Pacific King with King crab, avocado, Asian pear and wasabi-avocado crème or the refreshing Geisha — cucumber-wrapped, Scottish salmon and avocado.
I haven’t even gotten to the Noodles, Rice or Sides, but by now you can correctly assess they are equally tasty. Highlights include Chilled Udon Noodles with peanut sauce, Shrimp “XO” Pilaf with Brunoise vegetables, shiitake mushrooms, crab meat and pineapple foam and Handcut Toku Fries with Wasabi Aioli.
All the dishes are excellent, all worthy of feasting on. However, do not miss, what my guest and I thought to be the star of the night: The Peking Duck. Our server announced, “We are aiming to serve the best Peking Duck in South Florida” and I dare say it lives up to that goal. The duck meat is tender and juicy, cloaked in crispy skin and accompanied with tidy white porcelain rectangles bearing slices of cucumber and scallion, the traditional accompaniments. There are also warm, thin pancakes and a complex, umami hoisin sauce to bring all the flavors home.
Who needs dessert after such a feast? Who would even have the room? I couldn’t resist and ordered the Fuji Tatin. Would you believe me if I told you I ate more than one spoonful? I did, because like the rest of the meal, it was too good to stop.
Toku is located in Aventura Mall at 19575 Biscayne Blvd., Suite 1109. For more information, visit tokumodernasian.com or call 305-465-8658.