Crossroads Of The World

Panama may only be 29,157 square miles, but it’s a larger-than-life experience. 

The southernmost Central American country is home to one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World, the Panama Canal, and it’s the only place on the planet where you can watch the sunrise on the Pacific and the sunset on the Atlantic – the same day.

Add to that: tropical rainforests, stunning beaches, majestic mountains, intriguing history, rich culture and cosmopolitan cities. And, considering it’s only a three-hour flight from Miami and Panama accepts the U.S. dollar, it’s a much more convenient option versus other international destinations.

There’s plenty to love there, says Liriola Pitti, CEO of PromTur Panama, the country’s international-tourism promotion investment fund: “Panama is known as the Crossroads of the World as it is deeply rich with history, diverse by nature, and full of inspiring landmarks and natural beauty.”

Mention Panama, and thoughts jump immediately to the famous canal. A glance at the world map underscores the country’s strategic location between north and south: One can easily see why the Isthmus of Panama was chosen for the construction of a 50-mile waterway. The marine shortcut saves transportation time and costs while providing a safer route. Since its opening in 1914, the canal has been utilized by more than a million vessels.

Given the canal’s historic importance, it’s understandable that many visitors choose to cruise on it. Yet, while the operation of the locks can be interesting, the routine soon becomes monotonous – and cruisers miss viewing the beauty of the country, experiencing its wildlife and tasting its rich heritage. Instead, I suggest a land-based exploration to witness firsthand everything that Panama has to offer.

Old Town

Start your adventure in the capital, Panama City, named one of the 50 Best Places to Travel in 2019 by Travel + Leisure. Old Town, the historic area known as Casco Viejo, is best explored on foot. The UNESCO World Heritage site features a fort resembling the Castillo de San Marcos in St. Augustine. The main attraction at the Iglesia de San José cathedral, the famous Altar de Oro (Golden Altar), was miraculously saved during a pirate sack. 

Browsing the churches, historic monuments, ruins, shops and squares among the narrow cobblestone streets ranks as a favorite activity. Shoppers may find it hard to resist buying a Panama hat, but here’s a secret: Panama hats are made in Ecuador. So skip it.

Foodies find that the blend of traditional Panamanian dishes with intercontinental influences makes for an exciting culinary scene. At Panama City’s Seafood Market, Cocina de Mercado, fresh fish arrive daily from both sides of the canal: the Pacific and the Caribbean. Purchase your selection, and the market restaurant will prepare it according to your taste.

On the ground floor of a family residence, find the intimate Riesen Restaurant. Chef/owner Hernan Correa specializes in local cuisine using ingredients from micro-farms served in crockery made by local artisans. At another eatery, Fonda lo que Hay, a menu board highlights eight or nine dishes inspired by Panamanian cuisine.  

The CasaCasco dining and entertainment venue comprises five floors and offers three restaurants, a disco and a rooftop terrace providing panoramic city views. Many rooftop bars at boutique hotels in the city come alive with music and drink in the evening. With a cocktail in hand, watch the sky turn from pink to purple and the lights of the skyscrapers flicker on. 

Downtown Panama City

If the number of skyscrapers is a marker of a country’s ambition, then Panama has set its sights high. Recent construction in the city center has created an ultra-modern skyline chockablock with towering apartments and glass-and-steel high-rise office buildings. New wealth from the highly successful canal management has created a boomtown, making the capital an international financial hub and giving it the nickname the Dubai of Latin America.

However, while the Emirates city saw its ambitions crash in 2009 after it failed to pay its debts, Panama’s capital came out of the global financial crash relatively unscathed.

“Over the past decade, Panama has been one of the fastest growing economies in the world, with an average annual growth rate of 5.6 percent over the last five years,” according to a World Bank statement.

Panamanians prefer shopping in malls (the capital has more than 10), but travelers will find locally made products in independent stores. Look for accessories handcrafted by the indigenous Kuna community and woven products made of palm fibers.

Tourist lodgings run from small boutique hotels, popular in Old Town, to name-brand hotel chains like Waldorf Astoria, Westin and Le Meridien. Consider the Bristol in the Financial District or the Santa Maria Hotel and Golf Club, at the far end of the city. 

Yes, the Santa Maria is a luxury Marriott hotel, but this urban oasis also offers an 18-hole championship Jack Nicklaus golf course smack in the middle of the city. Allot time for hitting the links, relaxing by the pool or being pampered in the spa. At breakfast, try the Geisha coffee – the world’s most expensive, currently running at around $80 per pound – in the hotel’s coffee shop.

Panama Canal Visitor Center

No trip to Panama is complete without a tour of the Miraflores Visitor Center, which is all about the canal and named for one of its locks. Understanding the history of the waterway means understanding the country’s struggles, economy and cultural mix. 

Visitors get a close-up view of ships entering and exiting the locks from three different levels. I found the scenic vantage point superior to those a cruise offers. The center displays fascinating artifacts and historic footage of the complex construction. 

The plan to link the Atlantic and Pacific oceans became one of the greatest environmental challenges ever: Excavating through mountains and jungles was no easy task. The French, coming off the successful Suez Canal build, began work on the Panama Canal in 1880. But financial problems and tropical diseases halted the project, and they abandoned it after 22,000 workers died.

When Panama gained independence in 1903, the U.S. stepped in to continue the difficult endeavor. The nation built a railroad line through the bottom of the canal to supply and remove materials, knowing it would eventually be flooded. Finally, the engineering feat triumphed in 1914, but at a tremendous financial cost and human toll. The U.S. administered the canal from its opening until 1999, when it turned operations over to Panama.

Lake Gatun

Panama City is the only capital that can boast a rainforest within its city limits. Take a boat excursion on Lake Gatun, starting in the town of Gamboa, where the Charges River meets the canal. On my two-hour outing, we passed massive container ships and enjoyed close encounters with rainforest wildlife. 

A cable car at the Gamboa Rainforest Resort crosses the jungle, allowing visitors to touch the tops of trees. Arrive at the mystical Soberania National Park, just a half-hour from the capital, before sunrise to see and hear jaguars, howler monkeys, agoutis (large rodents), macaws and marmosets. 

Anton Valley

Another day, my group left the city behind to explore the mountainous Anton Valley area, where we spotted a brown-throated sloth in the wild.

The Canopy Lodge, a popular eco-lodge, rests within dense foliage and offers lunch and overnight accommodations for hikers. Guided hikes within the cloud forest range from a 30-minute outing to more physically demanding half and full days. Trek past the cascading Chorro Macho Waterfall, and cross a river on a picturesque swinging rope bridge.

Butterfly Haven in the Anton Valley teaches visitors about the lifecycle of the insects as well as other flora and fauna of the tropics. There’s a lot to learn: Panama’s biodiversity is said to be three times greater than that of the U.S., Canada and Europe combined.

Buenaventura Golf & Beach Resort

If you’d like to truly experience Panamanian paradise, visit Buenaventura Golf & Beach Resort, about 90 minutes from the city. The prime location puts you close to the turquoise water and world-class beaches of Playa Blanca. The resort’s stunning colonial architecture blends with beachy decor and displays by local artisans.

As a travel writer, I’ve visited hundreds of hotels, but I was blown away by the exquisite beauty, calm and service at this resort. 

Lush landscaping and water surround everything on the property, which spans nearly 1,000 acres. Laze around sparkling pools, the meandering lagoon or black sand beaches. The more energetic will find plenty of sports such as golf (another 18-hole Nicklaus-designed course) and tennis at the resort’s top-tier sports club. Families love the on-property Buenaventura Zoo, which acts as a rescue and rehabilitation center for monkeys, deer, parrots, cockatoos, porcupines, peacocks and crested caracaras.

Throughout my Panamanian adventure, I was thoroughly surprised – and delighted – by the culture, activities, landscape, lodgings and history. While I wasn’t expecting to give the country such high praise, I now feel it offers a terrific value for travelers and a chance to explore something far beyond the ordinary. 

In short, expect the unexpected from this ever-changing country – but plan for an unforgettable experience. O

Panama Fast Facts

• Numerous flights leave daily from Palm Beach, Fort Lauderdale and Miami (the latter two offer the most nonstop options) to Tocumen International Airport, the country’s main airport. A taxi from the airport to downtown Panama City costs about $30.
• Panama was the first Latin American country to adopt the U.S. dollar as its own.
• The official language in Panama is Spanish, and it’s spoken the most by locals. However, English is used in tourist areas.  
• Panama is one of the safer countries in Latin America. It ranked fourth out of eight on Oyster.com’s 2019 list of the safest countries in Central America and South America.

Photos by iStock.com/Dr. Jürgen Tenckhoff, Debi Lander and iStock.com/Tef