Making Montana Memories

It's easy to socially distance in Montana. 

Look around and you’ll see there’s more nature, animals and wide-open space than people on any given day. 

The landscape of Montana is the yin to Florida’s yang: Where we have humidity, the air is crisp. Where our highest elevation is contingent upon the height of our sandcastles, Montana is framed by regal mountains. There’s no beach. There are zero palm trees. Instead, Ponderosa pines (the state tree), dot the rugged terrain.

History enthusiasts will remind you that Montana (the fourth largest state of our nation) is where famed explorers Lewis and Clark traversed at the behest of President Thomas Jefferson after the Louisiana Purchase in 1803. “A River Runs Through It” — first a bestselling novella, then the 1992 blockbuster film — showcased the beauty of the western state. 

For those seeking a winter vacation sans the crowds (save the occasional elk or bison), the opportunity to immerse oneself in nature — with the perks of a five-star experience — beckons at The Resort At Paws Up in Montana. 

Wilderness Meets Luxury

Consider this: 37,000 acres of untouched land laced with 100 miles of trails, some of which run along Montana’s majestic Blackfoot River. If your idea of an outing is more attuned with a visit to the Ritz, take note: this is not the outdoor excursion you were subjected to that time Dad wanted to teach you to make a fire from scratch. At Paws Up, outdoor fun is consistently and expertly paired with indulgence and splendor. Start with your private cabin boasting amenities like heated bathroom floors, jacuzzi, top-of-the-line kitchen appliances and a bed so divine it’s patented and available for sale. A luxurious spa awaits as well and, perhaps the biggest and most welcome surprise: the cuisine is exceptional.

A Working Ranch With Perks  

Don’t be fooled by your bed’s high linen count or the restaurants’ impressive wine list: Paws Up started out as — and continues to be — a working Montana ranch. In about 1915, a young man named Paul Greenough acquired four homesteads and, along with the purchase of additional land, formed the first 3,800-acre ranch, then called the Sunset Valley Ranch. It flourished into the unique and coveted travel destination under the guidance of the Lipson family, who purchased it in 1997, opening it as The Resort At Paws Up in 2005.

Their goal is to provide memorable family ranch experiences while offering the utmost luxury.

“We have a line in some of our marketing: ‘You only have 18 summers with your kids. Make them count.’ That goes for winters too. So that’s really an important idea that we take to heart for the guests who visit Paws Up...,” Co-Owner and Managing Director Laurence Lipson says.

Winter Wonderland

Once the first real snowfall of the season arrives, Paws Up is transformed into a winter playground for families with plenty of activities for young and old. Those craving speed (and perhaps hoping to relive a James Bond scene) will want to go snowmobiling (ages 8 and older can ride with an adult) or head to Blast Mountain for snow tubing and ice skating. Perhaps the most immersive ways to experience the sights and sounds of winter is cross country skiing or snowshoeing through the woods. For those wanting to test endurance skills, the backcountry biathlon is the way to go. All three opportunities are available to kids 8 and older. How about letting someone else (like an adorable team of man’s best friend) do the work for you?

Dogsledding is not only incredibly fun, but makes for glorious family pictures as well.

Children 3 and older may ride with an adult. For the true adrenaline junkie, skijoring (where a skier is pulled by a horse), is as fast paced as it is addictive. For that adventure you’ll have to be 12 or older to participate.

It being a ranch, horse activities are plentiful. Start with a winter trail, where riders as young as 6 can ride. If your horseback riding experience amounts to a few lessons during summer camp many moons ago, don’t fret. Paws Up has gentle horses with adorable names like Bandito and Creek along with veteran riders to serve as guides. Blazing your own trail with nothing but the sound of hooves crunching snow, wind whistling through branches, and, if you’re lucky, spotting a white-tail deer dashing through the woods is a transformative experience.  

Cow Croqueting, an activity inspired by the lawn game croquet, takes place at the Saddle Club’s indoor arena. The objective is for riders to guide cows through one of five gates (just as if you were knocking croquet balls through metal hoops in the backyard). Kids 8 and older can partake, and yes, it is as fun as it sounds!  

If leisure is your end game, a horse-drawn sleigh ride (with a cozy blanket and mug of hot chocolate or cider) is the stuff fairy tales are made of. 

Aiming For Fun

If you’re like me, it’s probable clay shooting falls into the category of something you’ve never tried. An Olympic sport since 1900, it originated in England in the late 18th century when marksmen, to improve their hunting skills, shot at live pigeons released from cages or box traps. 

Take a deep breath, no birds are involved today. Instead, discs made from biodegradable clay are shot out at various speeds and angles from different traps. Guests (ages 11 and older) are taught how to safely use a shotgun by thorough and patient instructors like Shooting Club Supervisor Caleb Melzer-Roush, guiding even the most hesitant participant on the best strategies to take. 

Hitting the neon discs is challenging, so when luck, and perhaps skill, align and you do get one, prepare to break out in a victory dance like I did. Melzer-Roush and the entire team have guests’ safety as the top priority, so rest assured they’ll already be holding the weapon for you.

In the far distance, deer frolic peacefully, oblivious to the marksmen-in-the-making.

Home Sweet Home

The first thing you may notice (if there aren’t elk chilling in your backyard) is the Lexus SUV parked in your driveway. That comes with every cabin and is yours for the entirety of your stay. There are 27 cabins (also referred to as “homes”) from the modest single story Meadow Homes with two bedrooms and two baths, to the Big Timber Homes, (3 bedrooms, 2 baths) to the ultimate Wilderness Estates with three large suites with private bath and an expansive second-floor loft and game room for kids to explore. So, whether you’re gathering for a multigenerational reunion, basking in some much-needed time with your immediate clan or enjoying an extended date night with your better half, there is a cabin for you. 

Each is rich in Western style, from plush leather couches to paintings of Montana’s landscape mounted in rustic wood frames. A working fireplace serves as the centerpiece of the living area with plenty of wood to keep it going through the night. Those lacking fire-building expertise need not worry, a quick call (or message on the easy-to-use Paws Up App) and the concierge will send someone to start it for you. Once that’s going, head out to the back deck for a dip in the outdoor hot tub, one of the best ways to experience nature when it’s cold outside.

Relax At Morris Ranch House

You don’t typically expect your massage therapist to be wearing hiking boots, but at Paws Up, don’t be surprised if they are.

Morris Ranch, a historic four-bedroom ranch home that doubles as the property’s spa come winter, has a multitude of services like the Cowboy Classic (scalp massage), Blackfoot River Rocks (hot or cold stone treatment) or The Last Best Massage — hot stone, magic muscle reliever, scalp and pressure point foot massage. Kids are welcome for massage and facial treatments and since pets are allowed at the resort, even Fido can indulge in a complimentary Wag the Tail pet massage.

Come For The Mountains, Stay For The Cuisine

“Most people don’t think of Montana as a destination spot to travel to in order to experience world-class cuisine. But at Paws Up (and now at The Green O as well) that’s easily one of the main attractions,” Lipson says.

After all, Executive Chef Sunny Jin has cooked in world-renowned eateries like El Bulli and The French Laundry. If you arrive in the afternoon, as I did, stop at Tank for a beer or, better yet, coffee and a plate of assorted cookies so packed with gooey, warm deliciousness you’ll make a point of ordering them any chance you get. (Pro tip: ask to have a plate delivered to your cabin and enjoy in front of the roaring fireplace).

The roughest part of your morning will begin at Trough, where you’ll have to decide between tantalizing options like Paws Up Benedict (soft-boiled eggs, honey-smoked salmon, hollandaise and crispy Yukon Gold potatoes), Big Sky Breakfast Sandwich — tomato jam, jalapeño and avocado emulsion, mizuna and two fried eggs nestled in a homemade brioche bun or Huckleberry Pancakes (with white chocolate, candied hazelnuts, orange zest and maple syrup). Lunch options are equally delightful.

The more “formal” dining (note, it is Montana, so while the setting may be more elegant, most diners remain clad in sweaters and jeans) happens at Pomp. Self-described as “refined, rustic ranch,” dinner revolves around the seasons and relies heavily on local farmers. Delicacies like Cauliflower Bisque with Parmesan croissant, house bacon and brown butter or Little Gems Salad with shaved turnips, strawberries, pepitas and a maple-sherry vinaigrette showcase the culinary team’s creativity.

Main courses may include Tempura Maitake Mushroom with purple barley, broccolini, shaved radish and a ginger-scallion relish or King Salmon with fennel, petit carrot, celeriac and fine herbs. This is beef country, so expect dishes like Beef Ribeye with fondant potatoes, charred leeks, crispy onions and black garlic jus or Beef Tenderloin with sofrito wild rice, crispy Brussels sprouts and whole grain mustard jus to make an appearance. Most of these items can also be delivered directly to your cabin, should you not want to venture out along with an in-home pizza delivery serving tasty artisanal pies that make for the ideal dinner on family movie night.

Make sure to meet with the property’s S’moreologist. Yes, you read right. Paws Up takes s’mores-making seriously, which means rigorous training to create the perfectly decadent s’mores. While these can be enjoyed at Tank’s fireplace, the experience of having them at an outdoor fire under the stars is second to none.

Culinary Champion

Opened in 2020, The Green O is Paws Up Ranch’s adults-only luxe retreat. Comprised of 12 unique, design-forward accommodations known as Hauses, the resort also has its own restaurant, The Social Haus. You’ll want to head over for the meal of a lifetime.

Spearheaded by Executive Chef Brandon Cunningham, his style is personal and intimate much like the vibe of the restaurant.

“I like an approach of small, thoughtful plates curated almost to the person,” Cunningham says.

Order the multicourse tasting menu and put yourself in his care. While dishes present as impeccable art pieces, there’s a notable element of whimsy paired with modesty that sets The Social Haus apart from other restaurants of this caliber.

Seating options vary from high top tables, an assortment of suede loveseats with convenient side tables attached and spots at the bar for a front row view to the open kitchen. However, the heartbeat of the eatery revolves around the green leather banquets forming a semi-circle around a fireplace in the center of the restaurant. 

The night I visited, an amuse-bouche arrived with the two-word description of “Fish Stick.” One bite into the halibut and black cod mixture fried in a tempura batter then lightly coated with a spice blend of dill tartar sauce and salt and vinegar and I knew I was in the hands of a genius. That was before I sampled the ramp aioli dipping sauce on the side of the plate. 

Trout and Potato featured cured trout with several presentations of potatoes. Matsutake mushroom, a Japanese delicacy, paired with a pine nut custard encircled in a ring of aged sherry vinegar left me in awe. Dishes continued to arrive, many featuring locally sourced ingredients like wild chamomile, elk and even unexpected flavors like Douglas fir tips as an homage to the woods outside. The pièce de résistance was when a dish simply titled “bison and turnip” arrived.Cunningham prepared a bordelaise sauce tableside by pouring fat from the beef tallow candle placed on my table at the beginning of the meal. Diners are presented with a handsome collection of steak knives with varying handles to choose from.

“I wanted to bring in as many facets of tableside interaction as possible and thought the knife selection was a really fun way to go…There are five different handles here at The Social Haus; cattle bone, bison horn, ram horn and juniper and walnut woods. Each one has a specific relation to Montana in their own right. The idea of presenting the steak knives as a ‘choose your weapon’ idea is certainly not a new one but I wanted to add to the guests experience and provide variety, even down to the cutlery used,” Cunningham explains.

Pastry Chef Krystle Swenson wrapped up the experience with a series of sweets including Hazelnut Brown Butter Financier with grape sherry zabaglione and fried rosemary. There’s a reason she was nominated “Outstanding Pastry Chef” in the 2020 James Beard Awards.

The Last Greatest Place

In our rushed world buzzing with noise, nothing is more therapeutic than to sit still. Preferably in the middle of a gorgeous forest. While soaking in your own personal hot tub. Waiting for one of the best burgers you’ve ever had to be delivered to your private cabin, so you are loaded up on energy for all the fun activities yet in store. This is the Paws Up experience: A place you never knew you needed until it swoops you up in all its winter magic, adventure and excellence making you wonder how you managed all these years without. This will become the spot — your spot — the perfect blend of serenity, luxury and adventure and the family holiday of your dreams.