Laudable Lilac

Tampa, the Florida Gulf Coast city that’s home to Busch Gardens and the Tampa Bay Buccaneers is now on the culinary map, in large part thanks to the flagship restaurant inside the five-star Tampa Edition Hotel. Lilac, which opened in 2022, joins the coveted list of Michelin-starred eateries (getting a Michelin star in the restaurant world is the equivalent of winning an Oscar in the film industry), one of three restaurants in Tampa to receive the prized distinction in 2023. Be sure to plan a visit the next time you’re in the area and you’ll immediately understand what all the buzz is about.

The space alone merits praise. The dining room’s dim lighting, handsome walnut wood flooring and vibrant emerald colored velvet  banquettes framed by lush foliage provide a sophisticated, convivial atmosphere promising a memorable time. Beginning with the signature cocktails, diners are introduced to the creative culinary force that has garnered Lilac its reputation for excellence. We opted for the Harissa Margarita, featuring Del Maguey Vida Mezcal, harissa, strawberry and lime and the Lilac Vesper (Bombay Dry gin, vodka and blueberry-basil shrub). Those skipping alcohol will enjoy the Peach Smash (bee pollen, Moscatel vinegar and ginger beer).

Under the expert helm of renowned Chef John Fraser and Chef de Cuisine Joshua Werksman, diners experience Mediterranean-inspired flavors (a nod to Fraser’s Greek roots) spotlighting seasonal ingredients harvested from the Tampa region. A fan of Turkish cuisine, Fraser emphasizes vegetable-forward dishes along with meze-style appetizers, all of which are presented as finger foods, which was explained by our server as “a better way to connect with your food.” The open kitchen design extends that connection between the kitchen and diners even more.

During my visit, my guest and I began with the Papin Lyonnaise, a warm, pull-apart milk bread with sweet, caramelized onions and thyme that was a life-altering experience in itself. As we tore off warm, fluffy, slightly sweet bread, Jesse, our friendly and extremely knowledgeable server, explained that the act of “breaking bread together” symbolizes the welcoming ethos of Lilac.

Another highlight was the Smoked Grouper Feuillantine with blackening spice and creamy lime vinaigrette, as well as the Artichoke Ravioli (unfortunately no longer on the menu). Other must-haves include  Tuna Tartare Mont Blanc (with avocado, demi-sec tomatoes and garlic meringue) and Spice Braised Rabbit with Semolina pasta halo, provencal mustard parmesan-potato cloud and guanciale. Diners can also opt for the Lilac Caviar Service, Osetra, sundried tomato dip and pommes rösti. The format is a 4-course prix fixe menu that rotates regularly, on any given night, and can feature items like Roasted Dover Sole with wild morel grenobloise, fresh rigatoni and tomato sauce à l’arête, Duck au Poivre (peppered duck breast, crispy leg confit and heirloom citrus glazed carrots and favas) and Petite Filet of Beef with green asparagus and beef tongue salad, ginger vinaigrette and sauce Colbert. For those that like to share, dishes for two include Gulf Red Snapper and Prime Beef Ribeye en Rotisserie.

We paired our dinner with wine selections, something I highly recommend. Under the guidance of Beverage Director and Advanced Sommelier Amy Racine — one of the youngest women to pass the notoriously difficult Court of Masters Sommeliers Advanced Exam — oenophiles wanting to experience the meal with the right bottle will bode well.

Be sure to save room for dessert, there’s a varied selection, each equally delicious. Our table couldn’t resist the Bombolini with apple-rosemary caramel and Calvados créme and the Robiola Goat Cheese with Lavender herb cracker and apricot mostarda. Chocolate lovers take note: there’s a Dark Chocolate Soufflé with your name on it. It serves two and comes with vanilla gelato, orange marmalade and saffron Anglaise.

Beyond being extremely accommodating with my table’s various dietary restrictions (something almost unheard of in most Michelin-rated restaurants), it’s clear why this gem in Tampa has garnered such acclaim. From the masterful creations of Chef Fraser to the impeccable service and the intimate, sophisticated setting, it’s an unforgettable experience that lingers long after the last bite.

Lilac is located in The Tampa Edition, 500 Channelside Drive, Tampa. For more information, visit lilacrestauranttampa.com or call 813-771-8022.