Vacation To Your Heart’s Content

Thesis Hotel In Coral Gables Soothes The Body, Soul And Appetite

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I’ll admit, I came for the food. After all, who can resist a hotel outfitted by, not one, but two restaurants helmed by Miami’s acclaimed chef Niven Patel? The plan was delightfully simple: arrive, drink, eat, drink some more and then teeter off to bed — before waking up to do it all over again.

What I didn’t factor in was to be embraced by charm, serenity and luxury the minute I walked through the doors. Thesis is not ostentatious. There are no extravagant chandeliers, no over-the-top wallpaper patterns, nor is there a swarm of overeager staff buzzing about, ultimately serving as more of a nuisance than a help. Instead, there’s a relaxed breeziness to the place, perhaps an ode to its Coral Gables location — known more for its tree-lined boulevards, ivy-covered buildings and Mediterranean Revival architecture — and less as a party town like Miami Beach.

Relaxation is bound to happen here — if not, you’re doing something wrong.

There are 245 rooms bearing a handsome, mid-modern century design that could easily have been pulled from a scene of “Mad Men,” had Don Draper wanted to get away from the hustle of Manhattan. Burgundy and gray tones inevitably soothe weary travelers, while modern light fixtures add elegance and generous windows bring that fabulous Florida light inside. Art takes on an active role throughout the property, from the whimsical photograph of women peeking through a bush (taken from behind) gracing my room, to artist Jaume Plensa’s outdoor sculpture “Storm” in the hotel’s Paseo de Rivera, home to al fresco dining, weekend market and outdoor activations.

If your plan is not to work your way into a food coma like mine was, there is plenty nearby to explore. Thesis is situated along U.S. 1 and is a brisk 15-minute walk to Lowe Art Museum, which lies on the University of Miami campus. Five miles beyond you’ll find the famed Vizcaya Museum & Gardens, a museum encompassing the lavish villa and adjoining gardens built by businessman James Deering in 1916 as a tribute to the Italian Renaissance. Bikes are available to rent for those wanting to take in the sights and get some exercise as well. There is also a gym outfitted with all the essential equipment for those disciplined enough to get their workout in and an outdoor pool on the third floor — again, nothing too extravagant, but just enough to enjoy a dip, take in the scenery, maybe remember why it’s great to be alive.

But back to the eating and drinking.

My guest and I arrived just shy of a quintessential South Florida sunset, making our way up to the rooftop bar, Mamey on 3rd, lured by the gentle calypso drum and familiar tropical renditions of Bob Marley classic songs, performed live by Peter Bernard Calypso Trio. The expansive space has multiple nooks and crannies accommodating both intimate date nights for two and large family get-togethers. There’s a wraparound view of the city that is priceless and best enjoyed while sipping specialty tropical cocktails like Polynesian Old Fashioned or Lychee Blossom.

Small bites from Mamey (Patel’s Caribbean-inspired restaurant downstairs) are available as well so go ahead and nibble on the Yellowfin Tuna Tostones and the Island Spiced fries with Homestead mango ketchup.

But don’t fill up.

Head to Mamey for dinner.

If you haven’t heard about Chef Niven Patel, you’re either new to South Florida or have been living under a rock. The James Beard Award-nominated chef was named one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs in 2020, stealing the culinary spotlight with his Indian restaurant Ghee and his relentless ethos to work with local farmers — including using produce from his own Homestead farm.

Mamey is Patel’s tribute to his travels through the Caribbean and Asia, with the space bursting with foliage to home in on the tropical oasis vibe. And although he was born in Georgia, his Indian roots are strong and make a quiet appearance in the cuisine here as well.

Take, for example, the Glazed Lamb Ribs, which use local honey, chives and seasonal pickled fruit — in our case bright, tart slivers of star fruit. Key West Pink Shrimp Taquitos showcase tender, plump and perfectly sweet shrimp, paired with malanga, roasted jalapeño, avocado and farm radish for a bit of heat. Perhaps the star of the appetizers is the White Truffle & Brie Grilled Cheese: impressive chunks of crispy, toasted bread from famed Sullivan Street Bakery oozing with melted brie and white truffles and resting triumphantly over tangy Florida Mango Jam. The balance of tart, creamy, rich flavors paired with an irresistible crunch is dizzying and addictive. It’s a dish hard to forget.

Seafood fans will want the Local Daily Catch Ceviche, fresh and popping with flavor thanks to the coconut Leche de Tigre. Main courses include Mishima Ranch Churrasco with Yucca, Rainbow Chard and a delightful Red Pepper Chimichurri, a steak that is expertly seasoned, charred on the outside and pink inside. Other dishes include Duck Fried Rice and an exceptional Prince Edward Island Mussels which presents the bivalves in a spicy tomato broth.

Mamey is not a place to skip dessert. Quite the contrary, I encourage you to lean in to this part of the meal and order more than one.

My guest and I did just that, crooning over Jamaican Rum Cake with Toffee Sauce and Vanilla Bean Ice Cream; Floridian Mango Custard with Coconut Cookie Crumble, Tropical Fruit and Coconut Sorbet; and Chocolate Mousse Bar with Brownie, Dulce de Leche and Hazelnut Praline. Life is for the living — there are no regrets.

Such a meal (and the accompanying cocktails and superb wine list) is best had when your travel plan’s most complicated move is making sure you press the correct button on the elevator. A profound and blissful sleep followed (big shout out to the blackout curtains and dreamy bedding) and I was ready to tackle brunch at Patel’s other restaurant on the premises, Orno.

The New American eatery is donned in a palate of green, gold and earth tones with large pendant lighting and verdure that competes with its sister restaurant on the other side of the hotel. The brunch menu is ample and steeped in Patel’s culinary philosophy, from the word “iubentium” (Latin for “Cheers”) nonchalantly resting on the upper right corner, to an image of his farm, Rancho Patel with a superimposed personal message: “Food is a universal language — a vessel for us to express our culture, work ethic, and the values of our community. My culinary passion has allowed me to express who I am in the most rewarding way possible.”

The staff is knowledgeable and friendly, something I experienced firsthand with my server, Yaidan Lemus, who pampered us with dishes he enthusiastically insisted we try. The Foie Gras French Toast, House Smoked Bacon Pizza and Maine Lobster Toast were just a few, and after a couple of bites, we knew we were in great hands.

To all the mothers familiar with the phrase “your eyes are bigger than your stomach” (I’ve certainly spoken it more than once to my children when consumed by the need to try it all), take note: it is impossible not to fall captive to Orno’s culinary charms and want to order every dish.

Housemade Pastrami Benedict served with a poached farm egg on a crispy latke; Grilled Wagyu Burger with bacon, aged cheddar and special sauce; and Ricotta Pancakes with strawberries and Vermont maple syrup followed, cluttering the table as I fell prey to Orno’s spell. A growing stack of takeout boxes began to form. A steady flow of cocktails (Strawberry Basil Spritz, Sangria and La Roma — mezcal, hazelnut orgeat and espresso) kept the festive spirit going.

I have strategically avoided the scale since returning home. I’m not interested in counting the pounds, but rather, choose to tally the joy, restfulness and overall joie de vivre experienced during my stay at Thesis Hotel. The exceptional culinary offerings, affable staff, comfortable room, smart design and happy-go-lucky vibe, make this chic hotel one well worth returning to. For now, I have a few takeout boxes to help keep the memory alive. 

Thesis Hotel is located at 1350 S. Dixie Highway, Coral Gables. For more information, call 305-667-5611 or visit thesishotelmiami.com.