The sky was cloudy, but that didn’t stop the electric turquoise water along the airport runway from greeting me upon my arrival to Bonaire. You may be wondering where Bonaire is exactly, and you’re not alone. Part of the ABC Islands (Aruba and Curaçao being the more well-known counterparts), Bonaire is a rugged, mostly untouched island nestled among the Lesser Antilles, just 50 miles north of Venezuela and forming part of the Kingdom of the Netherlands. In short, a hidden gem in the Caribbean.
Bonaire flamingo sanctuary and salt mountains
Covering about 112 square miles, this charming and vibrant island stretches 24 miles long and 9 miles wide at its broadest point. It boasts a unique personality all its own. After all, where else can you find an airport named after the striking pink birds that call Bonaire home? That’s right, if you arrive by air (a little over a three-hour flight from Miami), you’ll touch down at Flamingo Airport.
DownTown Kralendijk
The island’s capital city, Kralendijk, meaning “coral dike” in Dutch, pays homage to the island’s coral limestone, which covers around 70% of its surface. This small and peaceful town features colorful Dutch architecture and a lively shopping strip offering everything from seashell jewelry and flamingo-shaped slippers to an assortment of flavored salt, a product of the extensive salt flats producing between 300,000 to 500,000 metric tons of salt annually, which is exported worldwide. Desalination of ocean water is part of the infrastructure and built-in conservationist mindset, of which Bonairians take great pride — advocating for tap water consumption and discouraging wasteful use of plastic bottles.
But let’s move on from the facts and dive into vacation mode.
Begin at the airport, where you should not leave without sampling the restaurant’s pastechi, a half-moon shaped savory pastry (very similar to an empanada) filled with a choice of gouda cheese, tuna, beef with raisins and more. While there are plenty of places to enjoy this snack, locals flock here for the tastiest rendition.
A Room With A View
The island’s laid-back vibe is reflected in its hotel accommodations: there are ample villas and low-key hotels for those whose aim is spending the day in the water and less so at the place they’ll call home during their stay. Fortunately, Harbour Village Bonaire doesn’t sacrifice luxury for fun in the sun. With 43 rooms, suites and beach houses — many with an ocean view — lush, tropical landscaping and Bonaire’s only private beach (the island’s sugar-sand has almost a pinkish hue) you’re in for an intimate, relaxing stay. Swaying palm trees line the beach and numerous birds (with over 200 species, Bonaire is a bird-watchers haven) serve as nature’s soundtrack alongside the gentle break of the water, which is so still it almost looks like glass. This, in a nutshell, is paradise (with the added bonus of Nespresso coffee machines, WiFi and an oversized bathtub that beckons at the end of the day).
On one side of the beach guests will find the property’s dive center (PADI-certified scuba instructors and an array of diving packages are available, along with paddleboards and kayaks). Spot the row of lounge chairs and be sure to claim one come late afternoon — it’s the best place to watch an awe-inspiring sunset. Pro tip: order a cocktail or glass of wine from La Balandra, the hotel’s restaurant on the other side of the beach, and they’ll walk it over to you. Oh, and be sure to bring along bug spray: once the sun goes down, mosquitos may appear.
La Balandra will quickly become a regular hangout. Designed to resemble an antique Spanish ship, the open-air eatery extends into the ocean, surrounded by a reef brimming with tropical fish (in fact, the hotel’s livestream underwater camera is here). Start the day on the healthier side with Homemade Toasted Granola (granola, dried fruit and nuts, served with yogurt) or treat yourself to Eggs Benedict or the scrumptious French Toast, made with brioche. Lunch offerings include Peruvian Ceviche (prepared with whatever fish is caught that day) and a Classic Balandra Cheeseburger (with Gouda cheese as a nod to the island’s Dutch roots). Dinner kicks things up a notch with Salmon Avocado Tartare, Pasta Vongole and Argentine Ribeye served with Goat Cheese Potato Croquette.
Scuba & Snorkeling Paradise
Bonaire has been a hotspot for scuba divers for years, having been named the best place in the world for shore diving. With the extraordinary array of marine life, visibility being 60 feet or greater and the water temperature ranging from 78 F to 82 F, diving is optimal year-round. That explains the “Diver’s Paradise” license plate. Those without scuba certification need not worry, snorkeling in Bonaire is an experience unto itself. In fact, the water is so clear here that you’ll enjoy all the colorful fish below even while doing the breaststroke. Book a snorkeling tour with Aqua Fun Bonaire. They’ll meet you at the hotel’s marina, take you out on their boat to two snorkeling locations and provide drinks and snacks.
If you are curious to experience what scuba diving is like, there’s no better place than here — the calm waters and generous assortment of sea life make it a beginner’s dream.
Head to VIP Diving for a Discover Scuba Dive, an introductory experience for those considering certification. You’ll begin with a quick online class (don’t worry, it’s not complicated), followed by a review with the instructor. Then, it’s off to their pool to practice the skills (the option to do this in the ocean is also available). If you are worried you may not be able to manage the scuba calculations and/or gear, don’t. The instructor is there to make sure you’re set — all you need to do is enjoy the incredible bounty and range of sea creatures.
And believe me, you will. On my 45-minute excursion, I encountered rainbow parrotfish, blue parrotfish, reef butterflyfish, trumpetfish, brilliant orange Spanish hogfish, eels and sea turtles, just to name a few.
Beyond Diving
Windsurfing is big in Bonaire, thanks to the constant onshore wind and the inviting water temperature. In fact, some of the world’s top windsurfers (Taty Frans, Kiri Thodé and Youp Schmit,) hail from the island. If you want to give it a go or, better yet, watch the pros go at it, Hang Out Beachbar, overlooking Lac Bay is the hotspot. Windsurf boards available for rent line one side of the restaurant while the other side is hugged by rows of rainbow-colored lounge chairs for those working on their tan. A Dutch radio station plays as backdrop to the buzz of patrons enjoying sandwiches and drinks.
Cadushy Distillery
Proost!
Nestled in the heart of Bonaire’s oldest neighborhood (Rincon) is Cadushy Distillery, makers of a liqueur made from cadushy, or cacti. The flavor profile is unique, and, admittedly, not for everyone, showcasing notes that are simultaneously sweet, herbal, floral and aromatic. There are several blends named after neighboring islands like Aruba, which features a combination of cherries and agave or St. Maarten which adds orange liqueur. The distillery also produces award-winning rum, along with vodka, whiskey, gin and tequila, all of which can be savored and purchased here.
Brass Boer
Exploring The Cuisine
One of the most welcome surprises is how varied and plentiful the dining scene is. My first evening on the island was celebrated at Sebastian’s, a Mediterranean-inspired restaurant with local influences and an oceanfront setting. Ask for a table on the pier and order the Fish Trio, a combination of barracuda, snapper and the catch of the day.
Bagel & Bloom
Make sure to schedule a breakfast at Bagel & Bloom, a charming spot in the center of Kralendijk. Beyond the homemade bagels, diners can order hearty dishes like Ryan’s breakfast (the restaurant’s rendition of Steak and Eggs), Loaded Breakfast Sandwich (thick slices of sourdough bread or bagel, eggs, bacon, cheddar cheese, avocado, tomato and secret sauce), waffles or French toast. It all arrives on dainty, mismatched floral plates that will make you feel like you’re visiting grandma.
Food trucks are a popular option, and while they all offer tasty grub, make it a point to stop at Cactus Blue. It’s at Dive Site #37 (diving markers dot the island) next to Donkey Beach. Just ask for the lionfish food truck, it’s legendary, not only for the incredible sandwiches and wraps made from this invasive species (the taste is similar to grouper), but for the burgers as well.
Oysters on the half shell at Brass Boer
Upscale Dining
Save this dinner for one of your last: it’s a memorable way to end the trip. Nestled inside Delfins Beach Resort is Brass Boer, where Chef Stefan Martens’ menu is elegant and artful, with a focus on local produce, whenever possible. Take, for example, the Tuna, which is served with tomato, fennel and ginger or the Duck with corn, miso and fresh red onion. I recommend going with the 6-Course Chefs’ Menu, where you’ll get to sit back and enjoy. Caviar lovers will want to add the additional Egg Caviar course (signature dish of De Librije, the 3 Michelin star restaurant in the Netherlands the same husband-and-wife team Jonnie and Thérèse Boer are behind).
Sir Eddy Trenidad at Tiki & Co
Chief Lapu Lapu cocktail
Nightcap
Tiki & Co isn’t your ordinary bar. How can it be when it’s the brainchild of award-winning (and might I add, exceptionally charismatic) Sir Eddy Trenidad? Sit at the bar and watch the talented mixologist work his magic. During my visit, I was prompted to provide three words describing myself. I chose smoky, spicy and mysterious and got one of the best drinks I’d ever had.
In true tiki bar nature, there’s an impressive collection of rums, but Trenidad, whose tattoo-skull-ring demeanor screams rebel, refuses to be defined by that.
Gin, tequila and mystery cocktails like the Sorobon Zombie (“Strong enough to put you in your grave, but tasty enough to bring you back”) reign in this playful, but highly curated bar.
Bonaire, which translates to “Good Air” leaves a big imprint, despite its miniature size. Whether you’re craving a vacation loaded with adventure or simply need time off to reconnect with a good book and your favorite cocktail, one visit and it’s understandable why so many people that discover the island return to it again and again.
