Ordinarily, if a middle-aged man sporting a considerable beer belly flashed me a grin and launched into a spontaneous serenade, I might be taken aback — even more so if he were flanked by an ensemble of singers. But this was different. This was Wednesday, Lona Cocina & Tequileria’s “Wednesday de Serenata” night, and listening to “El Rey” belted out by the mariachi band was part of the very memorable evening.
Chef Juan Carlos Peña
Marrying the best of South Florida living with authentic Mexican food and drink, Lona Cocina & Tequileria made its debut at The Westin Fort Lauderdale Beach Resort in 2018. The space is bright and lively, highlighted by a festive outdoor terrace overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, complemented by a handsome dining space that includes a tequila room donning treasured bottles of the favored blue agave spirit.
Helmed by renowned Mexican Chef Pablo Salas, “Lona” — Spanish for “canvas” — is both a reference to the clean slate for culinary innovation as well as a nod to Salas’s extensive tattoos, a point of pride easily seen in the large self-portrait on the wall and subtly echoed on the drink coasters.
Speaking of drinks, Lona Cocina & Tequileria takes cocktails very seriously. Beyond the must-try classic Lona Margarita, new drinks recently added include the Tesoro de Oro, featuring Bulleit Bourbon, Amaro Montenegro and Disaronno Amaretto or the festive Que Miras Guey, offering a flight of four different Patrón cocktails: #1 Patrón Reposado, Grand Marnier, lime and agave; #2 Patrón Silver, Siete Misterios Mezcal, lime and agave; #3 Patrón Silver, Aperol, orange, passionfruit and lime and #4 Patrón Reposado, pineapple, blue curacao and lime. For those seeking a non-alcoholic option, Que Chingon, made with Seedlip 108 and watermelon-mango lemonade, is an excellent choice.
Photo By Ricardo Mejia
The menu has introduced new dishes courtesy of recently appointed Chef de Cuisine Juan Carlos Peña. A native of Querétaro, Mexico, he arrived in South Florida in 2016, honing his skills in acclaimed restaurants like Miami’s Michelin-starred Le Jardinier and Stubborn Seed. He also worked at exclusive luxury hotels in West Palm Beach and Beverly Hills.
Chat briefly with Peña and it is evident he is passionate about his craft and commitment to promoting Mexican cuisine.
Like Salas, he aspires to take diners on an unforgettable culinary journey through his beloved homeland with these new creations. Take, for example, the Hamachi Aguachile, made with guajillo, cucumber, pico de gallo, avocado and cilantro. The bright and refreshing appetizer showcases his culinary prowess and meticulous choice of ingredients. Baby Romaine Ensalada reinvents the traditional wedge salad with a charred poblano dressing, parmesan, spicy pepita and panko crunch, rendering texture, heat, flavor and freshness all in one bite. There’s the choice to add a protein for those wishing to make a meal out of it, a welcome option, no doubt.
No Mexican dining experience is complete without tacos and Lona Cocina & Tequileria excels with its Carnitas Tacos, garnished with pickled onion, salsa verde, cilantro and lime. For heartier fare, the Lona Steak & Frites features a skirt steak prepared in guajillo garlic butter and served with ancho-dusted french fries.
Perhaps the most memorable bite during my visit was the Duck Carnitas in Pink Mole. This beautifully crafted dish centers around a crispy but tender duck leg confit resting atop a rose-colored sauce made with pine nuts and beets, providing a subtle sweetness heightened by the accompanying mashed potato and peppery frisée salad.
I indulged in one more iconic Lona Cocina & Tequleria favorite: the Lobster Quesadilla — butter-poached Maine lobster, chipotle aioli, red onion, cilantro and a house cheese mix wrapped in a warm flour tortilla.
Accompanying my meal were selections of Monte Xanic Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, both excellent examples of lesser-known Mexican wines you’ll want to add to your repertoire.
The mariachi band arrived at my table just in time to distract me from calorie counting. Their jovial presence was intoxicating, adding to the overall happy-go-lucky ambiance that is a big part of the restaurant’s appeal. While the mariachi singing is reserved for Wednesdays (along with house cocktails at half price from 3-7 p.m.), Lona Cocina & Tequileria organizes events throughout the week that have garnered a faithful following.
When someone in my group requested a Selena song, the female mariachi effortlessly transitioned to “Como La Flor” just as dessert arrived. It was Crème Brûlée made with orange and dulce de leche, both creamy and decadent. I found myself fully immersed in the moment, lost in the music and the flavors, singing along in between bites and already planning my next visit.
Photo By Ricardo Mejia