Celebration Of Flavor

Miami Chef Jeremy Ford Takes His Talent North With Opening Of The Butcher’s Club

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On the outside, The Butcher’s Club is the type of restaurant one would go to celebrate a special life event like an anniversary or a graduation. What is bound to happen, though, is that after one meal at this classy restaurant, you’ll find yourself tweaking the definition of “special event” with the sole purpose of making this newcomer your dinner destination.

Spearheaded by Chef Jeremy Ford (a “Top Chef” winner and the magic behind Miami’s acclaimed Stubborn Seed restaurant), the eatery — housed inside the newly revamped PGA National Resort — commands celebration. Begin with the stylish space: marble tables beneath polished gold chandeliers framed by tones of warm gold and dark wood harken to an era when we all weren’t so harried — or distracted by technology. People are meant to gather, enjoy good conversation and exceptional service, and of course, exquisite food and cocktails.

My guest and I begin with drinks. For those craving a cocktail, I suggest one of the specials, which rotate each season. While I was there, I sampled The Facundo, a luring blend of Chairman’s Reserve rum, smoked pineapple and orange bitters topped with warm passion fruit sabayon that was unlike anything I’ve had before. If you’re more of a traditionalist, this is the place for a dry martini or Old-Fashioned, perfect to sip on while perusing the menu.

At first blush, it reads like a traditional steakhouse: there are various meat cuts balanced by seafood options and a set of sides. But under Ford’s talent, dishes shine with his extensive experience working with some of Miami’s most celebrated chefs (think Michelin-star Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten from The Miami Beach Edition and renowned Chef/Restaurateur Dean Max among others).

Appetizers here are so good you have to restrain yourself from making them a meal unto themselves, something I could have easily done with the Cacio E Pepe Cheesy Puffs, which arrive hot, airy and fluffy with a generous shower of 24-month aged parmesan cheese and a side of tangy pickle slices to add contrast to the nutty, slightly sweet flavor. Another showstopper is the Tuna-Coconut Ceviche, a refreshing dish of melt-in-your-mouth fish served inside a half coconut with a sauce bearing notes of chili, cilantro and lime and a side order of crispy fried yucca chips.

Andy Patton, the affable general manager, approached my table bearing a plate he declared as “the prettiest Caesar salad you’ve ever seen.” Most of us are quite familiar with this salad: typically a goopy — sometimes too cheesy — blend of lettuce and oftentimes monstrous croutons plopped on top. Here, the crispy greens bore the proper amount of parmesan dressing, along with an added bonus of snow peas and fresh herbs, all topped with a crunchy crumble of sourdough croutons. Had Patton told me this wraps up my meal, I would have left happy, but thankfully, there was more to come.

Italian food lovers take note: you’ll want to order the Truffle Ricotta Gnudi when here. For those who have not had the pleasure of savoring gnudi, they are similar to gnocchi, but made with ricotta cheese instead of potato, which renders a lighter, pillowy dish. At The Butcher’s Club it comes with garden mushrooms, buttery greens and a pine nut crumble.

The restaurant is called The Butcher’s Club, so I’ll get to the meat of the matter (pun intended). Ford serves the classic greatest hits one would expect when gearing up for a carnivorous meal: filet mignon, Wagyu filet mignon and dry-aged N.Y. strip. Another wonderful steak featured is the 18-ounce smoked ribeye, both beefy and buttery with the lingering smokiness.

Then there’s the Swinging Tomahawk. I repeat, the Swinging Tomahawk. If ever there was a show to be had (and consumed) this would be it.

Order the Carrera Farms “Swinging Tomahawk” and the waiter will bring a 50-ounce dangling dream come true served with a side of crunchy “bravas” potatoes.

Sauces and enhancement abound. There’s also Ford’s Favorite Four — beef fat hollandaise, creamy peppercorn, chimichurri, natural jus — which makes choosing simpler.

Befitting of all steakhouses, there are plenty of sides to choose from at The Butcher’s Club. While you’d be wise to try several, I insist one should be the Colossal Blue Crab Mac & Cheese. The creamy, cheesy pasta flecked with abundant pieces of sweet, fresh crabmeat is a marriage made in heaven.

If meat is not your preference, the Green Circle Truffle Chicken with buttery potato purée, brussels sprouts, baby turnips and natural jus and Pan-roasted Local Fish, served with kale-pistachio purée, summer vegetables and kombu citrus broth are both prepared with equal dedication and thoughtfulness.

Though by this point you’ll probably feel like you cannot eat another bite, I implore you to forge ahead and order dessert. Between the Peachy Keen (almond cake, whiskey peach compote and vanilla bean ice cream) and the Toffee Date Cake (hazelnut, rye whiskey and creme fraiche) it wraps up the celebration with just enough sweetness and fanfare.

The Butcher’s Club is located at PGA National Resort, 400 of the Champions, Palm Beach Gardens. For more information call 561-627-4852 or visit pgaresort.com/dine/the-butchers-club.