Schnitzel House Punch
South Florida is booming with new restaurants, but while most of the up-and-coming culinary landscape showcases cuisine from Asia, the Mediterranean and Latin America, The New Schnitzel House, with a hearty focus on German food, stands out among the crowd. The eatery plays homage to a longtime staple, Royal Bavarian Schnitzel Haus (housed in the same location), that closed in 2018. And while The New Schnitzel House certainly hits all the comfort spots of its predecessor (think classic dishes like schnitzel, bratwurst and spaetzle), it shines bright with the fun Miami twist imbued to both the venue as well as the dishes and drinks.
German fare with a Miami twist
The space is dark yet inviting, emanating a throwback ’80s-meets-Art-Deco vibe. A vintage mirror wall dotted with bright, playful artwork makes the cozy space appear larger while comfortable booths invite patrons to get lost in deep conversation. There’s also an expansive outdoor patio in the back.
The best way to begin is with an ice-cold German beer. There is something for everyone, from the lighter Pilsners like Ayinger Bairisch Pils and Weihenstephaner to Stiegl Radler fruit beer, Krombacher Helles lager and St. Bernardus Christmas Ale dark ale. Not a fan of brew? Cocktails like the Schnitzel House Punch (Jägermeister, rum, orgeat, bitters and lemon), Mennonite (mezcal, vermouth and German mint) and the Espresso Martini made with tequila, rum, coffee liquor, coconut-vanilla syrup and coffee are wonderful options for those wanting a proper drink.
Brat Plat
The New Schnitzel House encourages sharing dishes, which explains why you should splurge on flavorful “appeteasers” like The Pretzel, which is served with beer cheese, pickled white onions, b&b pickles and two types of mustard (house and sweet grain). Currywurst (aka German Salchipapa) is the German kid comfort food of frankfurter slices and french fries drizzled with curry ketchup and served with curry kraut. There’s a Pickle Plate that offers a sampling of sweet and sour kraut, pickled carrots, b&b pickles, pickled mushrooms and pickled turnips, as well as Smoked Salmon Dip with cucumber salad, trout roe and El Bagel chips.
The Pretzel
For the main course, go for the obvious: schnitzel. There are three kinds: veal, chicken and vegetarian seitan — all of which come with creamy mashed potatoes and gravy. I sampled the traditional veal and, between the crunchy exterior and tender meat, was instantly transported to Deutschland. The Braised Short Rib Goulash with roasted fingerlings and carrots and chive sour cream is another dish packed with so much flavor you’d swear it was made by a loving oma. Slow cooked in hearty red wine, the meat melts in the mouth while the chive sour cream adds creaminess to each bite. Don’t miss the signature Brat Plat, where you can select up to three sausages (frankfurter, smoked wagyu kielbasa or bratwurst) which are then paired with kraut, potato salad, house and sweet grain mustard, b&b pickles and sour onions. In the mood for something a bit lighter? With the Honey Mustard Glazed Salmon, you can’t go wrong. There’s a generous selection of sides to pair with the main course but be sure not to miss the Spätzle, which the restaurant defines as “German mac ‘n’ cheese.” Its name derives from the word “spatz” (little sparrows) and is a German egg noodle pasta that is the staple of every German home. You can also order potato salad, baked sweet potato and trout roe.
The day I had dinner at The New Schnitzel House only one of the three listed desserts was available: Cheesecake with blueberry thyme jam and vanilla whipped cream. I’d had my heart set on the Apple Crumble, so I was a bit deflated when I learned it was not available, a feeling that instantly dissolved after my first bite. The cheesecake was rich but light — and deliriously creamy — and the blueberry thyme jam provided depth and character. The third option, Black Forest Cake, also piqued my interest. Having family living on the outskirts of the Black Forest in Stuttgart, I recalled enjoying it there on a visit several years ago. While I could have been upset to be limited to one dessert, I took the high road and decided it provided the perfect excuse to return.
The New Schnitzel House is located at 1085 N.E. 79th St., Miami. For more information, visit thenewschnitzelhouse.com or call 305-675-HAUS (4287).