The Best Of Bistro

Pastis Miami Invites Diners To Experience Delectable French Fare

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The subject of how to attain happiness has been heavily explored in recent years.

Endless books promising a roadmap have been written, courses on the topic are taught at high-brow colleges and hours of meditation and inner contemplation are being spent by Americans thirsty for that overall feeling of well-being. My solution is quite simple and extraordinarily delicious: have dinner at South Florida’s new restaurant: Pastis Miami.

It is the second outpost of the iconic New York restaurant, which first opened in Manhattan’s Meat Packing District in 1999 (a third location in Washington D.C. is in the books as well). For the South Florida iteration, owner Keith McNally partnered with restaurateur Stephen Starr, the man behind acclaimed Florida eateries like Makoto, Steak 954 and El Vez.

There’s an aura of joy emanating from this jovial Wynwood bistro, even before you set foot in the door. A large outdoor courtyard, lined by a generous (and busy) bar and dotted with tables with bright, primary-colored tops invite diners to enjoy the al fresco life that draws so many people to this part of the U.S. Overhead fans keep the breeze going and attentive servers are quick to deliver refreshing cocktails like Spritz Royal (Aperol, grapefruit cordial, lemon, sparkling water) or the Mangue À Trois, with Ketel one Citroen, vanilla, passionfruit, mango and a side sparkling wine.

Inside, the space is reminiscent of a neighborhood bistro in Paris. Gold-framed hand-painted mirrors rest alongside white subway tile and classic red banquettes set an elegant but approachable tone. The main bar, easily the heartbeat of the entire venue, offers over 300 wine labels from France along with cocktails with a coastal, Mediterranean twist.

When it comes to the menu, Pastis Miami boasts a hearty selection of a classic bistro’s greatest hits. These are all detailed in the paper placemat diners sit down to — a smart move as it allows one to take in the plethora of options in one delicious stroke. To avoid feeling overwhelmed, food items are neatly categorized (Hors D’oeuvres, Salades Et Sandwiches, Pastas, Steak Frites, Entrees and Garnitures). There’s also a Fruits de Mer section for raw or chilled seafood as well as a tempting daily special ranging from Duck a l’Orange to Bouillabaisse, depending on what day of the week you visit (for those two it’s Monday and Friday, respectively).

Opting to relive a trip to the City of Lights taken years ago, my table started with Onion Soup and Escargots. Our server insisted we also try the Crispy Artichokes and Sardines en Conserve, so, most willingly, we did. I was unsure if getting a piping hot soup covered with gooey cheese would be the smartest starter in South Florida. After all, we were sitting outside and, at the time of this visit, were already experiencing record heat. Any worries I may have had quickly evaporated as I was consumed with the rich and delightful broth, the soaked baguette floating within and the nutty melted cheese adding extra decadence. The only thing that disrupted my enjoyment of the dish was the arrival of another: the Escargots. Its garlicky butter aroma stopped, not only me, but my neighboring diners, who had to look up to discern what exactly was smelling so incredibly good. Six shell-free escargots bathed in sizzling butter and garlic, paired with baguette slices for dipping is as close to true love as one can get. A close second just may be the Crispy Artichokes, whose tangy aioli accompaniment made for a great partnership. Lastly, the sardines, which are imported from Brittany, France, arrived in the can, looking much like an Andy Warhol painting come to life. It, too, comes with bread as well as the celebrated Le Beurre Bordier, hand churned French butter made by the Bordier family since the 1980s.

For main courses, we settled on the Filet with Sauce au Poivre (pepper sauce), Moules Frites (mussels in a white wine and garlic broth) and Trout Amandine, which our waiter — whom had yet to steer us askew — explained was his favorite dish. As different as each dish was, I couldn’t settle on a favorite. The steak was supple, tender and packed with flavor, coated in a delicate peppercorn cream sauce. The mussels were plump and bursting with hints of the ocean, tempered by the finger-licking white wine broth. Both of these dishes arrived with french fries, which were extra thin and crispy, and much to my joy, paired with house made garlic mayonnaise instead of ketchup, a standard in the U.S. The fish, which I probably would have overlooked had our server not insisted, was a highlight. Prepared to perfection, it was moist on the inside, and bore a crispy skin topped with a happy excess of sauteed sliced almonds, all presented atop a brown butter sauce and crunchy, slender French green beans known as haricots verts.

I always save room for dessert. Who could not with choices like Profiteroles, Coffee Éclairs and Passion Fruit Tart? Have your camera handy if you go for the first option (which I highly recommend) so you can capture the server pouring rich, dark chocolate sauce over the tidy choux balls filled with vanilla ice cream.

The sad thing about a huge menu doubling as your placemat is that one is constantly reminded of all the other options you are not having. After all, there is a Pate de Campagne and a Steak Tartare starter that I’m sure are divine. And how about the Warm Shrimp Salad with lemon beurre blanc and avocado or the iconic French sandwich, Croque Monsieur? Don’t even get me started on the Cheeseburger a l’Americaine and the Duck Confit or another dish my waiter insisted upon, the Lobster Frites. Thankfully, I am a person driven by logic, which means I quickly decided I’ll need to return again and again.

Pastis Miami is located at 380 N.W. 26th St., Miami. For more information, visit pastismiami.com or call 305-686-3050.