Restaurants in South Florida struggle to keep their patrons’ fleeting attention span, but don’t tell Chef Michael Schwartz that. He opened his namesake eatery, Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink in 2007 and hasn’t looked back. Since then, Schwartz founded The Genuine Hospitality Group from which a steady flow of trendy restaurants was born. While each has their unique personality, they are all rooted in Schwartz’s commitment to seasonal, local fare — a prerequisite that helped him garner the 2010 James Beard’s Best Chef: South award.
While Tigertail + Mary, his Coconut Grove eatery, did not withstand the pandemic’s wrath, he now has six restaurants under his belt, including one (a Michael’s Genuine) that recently opened in Cleveland, Ohio in 2019. For such a people-driven industry, it’s hard to believe the prolific chef prefers the intimacy of the kitchen over anything else.
“I’m an introvert, and I really don’t like talking to people,” he confides with a hearty laugh. “I’ve gotten good at it, but it’s not really what I love.”
What he loves is the creative process. Schwartz explains that being constantly in motion helps him think and relax.
“I’m a busybody. I love to do stuff. And so, for me, relaxing is not taking a nap and sitting on the couch. For me, it’s usually making things — cooking, gardening, creating. That’s what I love to do, that’s what I do best.”
We’re grateful for his restless nature. It has brought us dishes like Whole Roasted Tuna Collar (Michael’s Genuine), Yuca Cheese Puffs (Amara at Paraiso), Short Rib Pizza (Harry’s Pizzeria) and two cookbooks, “Michael’s Genuine Food” and “Genuine Pizza.”
Originally from Philadelphia, Schwartz trained with the venerable Wolfgang Puck before hopping around to California, Colorado and New York then heading to South Florida almost thirty years ago. “It seemed like a good idea at the time. Miami was just starting to pop,” Schwartz says.
Raised on TV dinners and microwavable food, it was a high school stint at one of Philadelphia’s fancier restaurants that got him hooked. He began as a busboy and worked his way up. Schwartz, 57, feels that experience helped nourish the discipline and determination that has led to his success today.
“You know, I hate to sound like an old-timer but, ‘back in the day’ you would work your way up!”
He’s referencing a shift towards instant gratification experienced not just in the industry, but in the culture overall.
Schwartz is never done working, despite his success. His flagship restaurant, Michael’s Genuine, recently underwent a complete remodel and welcomed diners, a large majority of which are regulars, back in early December.
“I, like a lot of consumers, are having withdrawals of not being able to come. I was as much a consumer as I was part of the fabric of the restaurant!”
In the interim, he’s opened another Harry’s Pizzeria, this time in Miami Beach, making it a total of three (you’ll find the others in Design District and Coconut Grove) — providing plenty of outlets for fans to grab a pie.
He shares with us the recipe for one of the all-time favorites, the Stracciatella Pizza, which he says represents his overall philosophy on food and how it’s best enjoyed.
“One of the most important things about creating food — and the food that I like to eat and the food that I like to serve — is the contrast in color, temperature and texture. Those things, to me, make food more exciting.”
Case in point with the Stracciatella Pizza, where the fresh, Italian cheese is only placed over the piping pizza once it is done.
“It creates this umptious explosion in your mouth,” Schwartz adds.
Schwartz is quick to point out that the quality of the food, while important, is not the only factor to a successful restaurant.
“It is, and always has been, the overall experience. Not just, ‘Oh the food was good, but…,’” he says. The lighting, the service, the wait time — even if a waiter is over attentive, are all determining factors in Schwartz’s mind.
Was it just that everything worked so perfectly that you didn’t think of any of those things?” he asks after rattling off the list of potential problems.
“For me, that’s the ultimate goal.”
Stracciatella Pizza
With Spicy Roasted Tomato Sauce And Scallion
“This is one of my favorite pizzas. While caramelized onions are creamy and rich, the scallions are bold and aggressive, and these two ingredients balance each other out. Garnished with stracciatella, this pizza is a celebration of contrasting flavors, textures and temperatures as the cool, creamy cheese surprises the palate against the hot, fresh-out-of-the-oven pizza.”
—Michael Schwartz
Makes 1 (12-inch) pizza
INGREDIENTS
1 (8-ounce/225-g) ball pizza dough, at room temperature
Flour for rolling
3 tablespoons Marinara sauce
1 tablespoon Calabrian Chile sauce
2 tablespoons caramelized onions
2 tablespoons stracciatella cheese
2 tablespoons scallions, thinly sliced on the bias (at an angle)
Crushed red pepper
Flaky sea salt
INSTRUCTIONS
1. At least 30 minutes before baking, place a pizza stone or baking sheet on a baking rack in the top third of the oven, and preheat the oven to 5000.
2. After you have made your dough, allow it to come to room temperature for about one hour before making your pizza. Dip the dough into a little flour, shaking off the excess, and set on a clean, lightly floured counter. Start stretching the dough with your hands, turning the ball as you press down the center, then, using either your hands or a rolling pin (if you’re finding stretching the dough by hand to be tricky), work the dough until you form a 12-inch (30.5-cm) circle. If any holes form in the dough, patch them up so the topping does not seep through.
3. Dust a wooden pizza peel with flour (if you don’t have a peel, use an upside-down baking sheet generously dusted with flour) and slide it under the dough.
4. In a small bowl, stir together the marinara and chile sauces until combined. Using the back of a large spoon and starting from the center and spiraling your way out, distribute the sauce in a thin, even layer; you want to see some of the dough peeking through, top with onions.
5. Slide the prepared pizza onto the hot pizza stone or baking sheet and bake until the crust is properly browned, about 10 minutes. Check the bottom of the pizza to make sure it has been cooked well – it should be a rich brown color and burnished.
6. Transfer the pizza to a cutting board, garnish with the stracciatella, scallions, crushed red pepper and salt, and cut into slices. Serve immediately.