Chef Manuel Garcia
Beyond its rich history and beautiful landscape, there is, of course, the renowned gastronomy that makes Italy a pined after travel destination. But life, as we all know, gets busy, and, as much as one would love to hop over to The Boot to indulge in its extraordinary cuisine, it may not be that easy. Thankfully, an equally authentic experience awaits in Coral Gables.
I’m talking about Zucca, the elegant and vibrant Italian restaurant housed on the ground floor of the boutique Hotel St. Michel. While it seats 140 diners, the space feels intimate and romantic. Dim lighting, serene music and a personable, jovial ambiance set the tone for a wonderful dining experience. In true Italian fashion, you’ll be greeted like a beloved long lost family member. In my case, I was welcomed by Alessio De Felici, the manager who takes as much pride in the execution of each of the restaurant’s dishes as the satisfaction of its patrons.
Venezuelan-born Chef Manuel Garcia began his culinary career at 17, working his way up the ranks to Michelin-starred spots like L’Esperance and La Cote Saint-Jacques in France. Erasmo Da Silva, also Venezuelan, is the visionary. An entrepreneur and hospitality veteran, he is at the helm of Da Silva Hospitality Group, a family-run business with restaurants operating around the world.
Lamb Meatballs
My friend and I slid into a cozy corner booth — perfect for an overdue catch up. The design is clean and modern, with muted tan tones contrasted by verdant columns. There’s a handsome bar accented by a crimson meat slicer, where thinly shaved slices of prosciutto di Parma are garnered and served alongside freshly baked focaccia bread, chunks of Parmigiano Reggiano, olive oil and tapenade as a welcome to each diner’s table.
Antipasto All’Italiana
De Felici has friendly eyes and I trust him immediately, so when he suggests we start with the Fiori Di Zucca Ripieni Di Caprino E Miele Al Tartufo, I don’t hesitate. What arrives is a work of art. For those struggling to recall their college-level Italian, the dish is a jaw-dropping execution of Fried Zucchini Flowers Stuffed With Goat Cheese Sprinkled With Truffle Honey. A hypnotic aroma of truffle hit before the plate made it to the table. The delicate flowers are lightly coated in a crispy batter that practically dissolve as warm, creamy cheese gently oozes out. My guest and I were silent, too busy enjoying the surge of euphoria this appetizer brought on. Other antipasti include Wagyu Beef Carpaccio with White Beech Mushrooms, Grana Padano Cheese And Summer Truffles, Lamb Meatballs Served Over San Marzano Tomato Sauce With Ricotta Cheese or a wide array of Italian cheeses and charcuterie to build one’s own board.
Linguine Alle Vongole
Main courses cater to every taste, but when in Rome … eat pasta — at least as your “primi plato,” or first dish. Linguine Alle Vongole (Linguini pasta sauteed with clams in light clam juice and white wine sauce) is a surefire way to test an Italian restaurant. Zucca passes with flying colors. Rolled out on a beautiful cart, we were shown the completed dish: a mountain of house made pasta capped by a decadent showering of clams. Felici went on to remove the clam shells, exposing the plump bivalves paired with al dente pasta enhanced by the slightly sweet, slightly briny velvety sauce.
Tagliatelle Ai Funghi Misti
Fair warning: you may be paralyzed with crippling indecisiveness. There are multiple pasta offerings — and they are all good. Our next one was the Tagliatelle Ai Funghi Misti Con Fonduta Di Parmigiano E Caviale Al Tartufo Nero (Tagliatelle with mixed wild mushroom, “parmigiano fonduta” and black truffle caviar). It’s easy to comprehend why these wide noodles heady with umami flavor and crowned with caviar make this such a popular dish. Likewise, the Ravioli Di Zucca Burro E Salvia — ravioli stuffed with pumpkin, sauteed with light butter sauce and sage, is the signature pasta from which the name, Zucca (pumpkin) derives.
Pace yourself, because there is more — what Italians call “secondi Plati,” which is an excuse to have two main courses. Divided into seafood and meat categories, Merluzzo Nero Al Guazzetto Di Cozze Con Fregola Sarda, Spinaci E Pomodorini, or Black cod with mussel stew, Sardinian fregola, spinach and cherry tomatoes is a delight as is the Salmone Selvaggio Con Insalata Estiva Di Sedano, Finocchi, Mela, Cipolla Di Tropea E Mandorle Con Pure Di Arancia — Grilled wild salmon with celery, fennel, apple, “tropea” onions and almond salad served with orange puree. Carnivores shouldn’t miss the Carrè D’agnello In Crosta Di Erbe Aromatiche Con Carciofi Saltati E Purea Di Piselli E Menta, or half rack of lamb in aromatic herbs crust with sauteed artichokes, pea and mint puree — one of the highlights of the entire meal.
I trust you’ll take advantage of the award-winning wine list (Zucca has been a winner of the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence for five consecutive years) or one of the many alluring cocktail options.
And do find a way to squeeze in dessert, both the tiramisu and the ricotta cheesecake are showstoppers.
Zucca is located at 162 Alcazar Ave., Coral Gables. For more information, call 786.580.3731 or visit zuccamiami.com.